Wall Photos Coming Soon
Drive 2.85 miles up from the neon sign. You can either park on one of the pullouts on the right side of the road, or park in the Storm Mountain picnic ground ($4.00) on the left side of the road. The entrance says that it costs $2 to use the area for any reason, but I'm not sure if this applies to climbers rather than just picnickers. The host has never said anything as I've walked by, and I've never seen climbers paying fees.
Once in the picnic ground, cross the bridge and follow the asphalt paths to the right to reach a playground at the edge of a large field. Follow a climbers trail throught the grasses across the field to the wall, which is NW from the playground. Enter the trees and scramble up a ledge system angling left (cl. 4) to reach the base of the main wall.
This wall provides opportunities for some long single-pitch top-roping and some long 2-pitch trad climbs. The wall is deceptively difficult and provides steep climbing, generally following the rock strata diagonally to the left. The main wall has bomber & clean rock, but the rock quality reportedly varies from route to route.
|Route ||Difficulty ||Rating ||FA ||Trad/Sport |
|Trick of the Light ||5.11d || ||1987, Paul Lanz ||Sp|
|Winter in Waimea ||5.11d || ||1987, Paul Lanz ||Sp|
|Mercy Street ||5.7+ || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|Merci-Buckets ||5.11b || ||1990, Stuart & Bret Ruckman ||Sp|
|Charlie's Traverse ||5.6 || ||early 60s, Dick Bell, Ben Peterson & John Paup ||Tr|
|Mercy Me ||5.9 || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|Upchuck ||5.10a || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|Fowl Play ||5.9+ || ||1995, Brian Smoot & Glen Henshaw ||Sp|
|Check Point Charlie ||5.9+ || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|The Bee Pitch ||5.8 || ||1961, Dave Wood & Bob Irvine ||Tr|
|Sin Nombre ||5.9+ || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|Rotten Roost ||5.8? R || ||1962, Dave Wood & Bob Irvine ||Tr|
|Perserverence Bulge Crack ||5.9 || ||1961, Rich Reese & Milt Hokanson ||Tr|
|Route overview information used from Stuart & Bret Ruckman's Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range. In depth information is from personal experience|
Fowl Play - 5.9+
This is an enjoyable and difficult sport climb. It begins from where you reach the large ledge, and gradually works left. This route is well protected by closely spaced bolts.
There are two cruxes, the hardest being at the 2nd bolt where one must climb over a vertical smooth wall with jugs at the top (5.9+?). You can rest on a narrow ledge at the top of this. If you want to cheat, you can climb around the left edge of the slab (5.8?). The top third of the route is much easier. From the anchor chains, it is a vertical 80 ft rap.
The upper part of the route introduces enough rope drag that if top-roping the route, the belayer may want to stand up, take in rope, and sit down to make sure that all the slack is taken in.
I've only climbed on a sport route, where your standard rack of quickdraws & some runners for the anchor are fine. I don't know what would be needed for the trad routes. While helmets are usually a good idea, the rock here is solid and pretty well cleaned out.
If you have additional info for routes described or have done a route not described in depth, please put the info here and I'll integrate it into the page!