Bumblie Wall, 5.6-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Bumblie Wall has two climbing faces, its west wall and south end.  Perhaps the most overrated climb at the City of Rocks is Too Much Fun, 5.8***, which anchors the right side of the west wall and from what I have observed is the most popular route in the entire reserve.  Of course McDonald's serves the most popular hamburger but that does not make it the best.  I have witnessed, on more than one occasion, several parties waiting in line to climb this route despite the fact it is just a well featured 5.8 bolted line, with nothing overly unusual about it, with routes nearby just as good if not better.  It is over bolted (18 bolts!) which adds to the allure for the SLC crowd no doubt.   New York is Not the City, 5.10a***, is also not deserving of the accolades the guide gives it, but the author is a sport climber and tends to give many of the fully bolted routes more praise than they deserve in comparison to the mixed and/or trad climbs.   Return of the Bumblie, 5.10a**, was a more interesting bolted climb for sure.

The Bumblie Wall makes up the west side of the popular Transformer corridor.  These two features along with Cannibal make up three parallel fins right across the creek from the north end (Raindance) of Flaming Rock and are well signed (2018).   Best approached from the south via the Flaming Rock trailhead located near campsite #30 but easy to approach via Parking Lot Rock from the west as well.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall

Fifty Feet of Fun- 50’-5.11c**/

New York is Not the City- 80’-5.10a***/ Makes no sense that this sport route gets 3 stars and its neighbor at the same grade, Return of the Bumblie, gets 2.  I am not sure either deserves 3 stars, but Return of the Bumblie is by far the better route at the grade.  New York has one 5.10a move (maybe) off the deck then it is pretty much jug city to the rap chains.  5.8 in Joshua Tree hands down.  The rock is great.  Dow

Flight of the Bumblie- 80’-5.10a*/

Bumblie Takes a Tumble- 90’-5.11a***/

Return of the Bumblie- 80’-5.10a**/ Excellent sport route for the City.  Like New York, another fun dyno move off the deck, but well protected with a bolt you can reach before you start.  Once you get to the steeper upper wall, you climb a closed corner via a little stemming.  Some route finding face skills and then a cool mantle up through more neat moves on good rock.  Rap chains.  Gets less credit than New York even though it is a better route (more sustained with more interesting moves and features).  Dow

Bumble Pie- 50’-5.11c***/

Too Much Fun- 150’-5.8***/ I am confused why this fully bolted climb is so popular.  Most of it is 5.6 at most and it is heavily bolted with parties backed up on it almost anytime I walk by it.  Good solo objective for the competent soloist (if you can squeeze in between parties) as the holds are positive and heavily traveled.   18 clips.  Can rap down the opposite side with a single rope.  Dow

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South End

Ego Coaster- 150’-5.9R/

Christiansens’s Corner- 60’-5.9*/

Miki’s Six- 75’-5.6**/

Beer and Dandelions- 75’-5.9/