Burning Daylight

Page Type
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Rock-Classic Crack
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Created On: Apr 8, 2001
Last Edited On: Oct 14, 2003


Scramble up the NorthEast Buttress Approach. Aim for the brilliant yellow columns, obviously split by a wide crack. That crack is Gooseberry Jam. Burning Daylight is directly left of it and identified by a series of 3 roof/bulges. You could probably put on a rope for the last part of the scramble up to the huge ledge at the base of the route.

Route Description

This route was first climbed in the Autumn of 1977. Dennis Horning and Mike "The Custer Kid" Todd teamed up to tackle this one. Although it appears intimidating, with numerous bulges and roofs, all of the jams are tight, the crack will accept as many pieces as you can carry and overhead pro can be arranged for pulling all of the roofs. A 3-Star ,Class Act.

Pitch 1.(160 ft., 5.10b) Finger -jam, hand-jam and stem up this left facing dihedral. There is a good stance underneath each roof, to collect your thoughts and set pro from. Above the last roof the crack widens (#3-#3.5 Friend size) and going gets easier. ( " uh...after The Narrows, the river widens....uh").Belay from a bolt anchor on the column tops to the right. Many parties stop here and top-rope or lead Casper College or Belle Fourche Buttress, both of which end at that anchor.

Pitch 2. ( 150 ft., 5.8) Of the 4 roofs above you, climb the second from the left. Yep, the crux is moving through the roof. Belay, eventually, on a column top to your left.

Finish. ( 90 ft., 5.5 or so) Work up and maybe alittle right, for an easy finish.

Essential Gear

Standard Rack. Extra finger size pieces and smaller (BD #3-7) stoppers do come in handy....... Don't forget to take some wide ones for the end of the 1st pitch !!!!!!

Miscellaneous Info

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