is a short winter alpine climbing route in the eastern face of Mojstrovka
mountain at Julian Alps
. This route is very popular in winter due to its difficult grade, short approach and easy descent. Therefore expect to have other climbers in the route.
Bor - Butinarjeva grapa Butinarjeva ravine
The starting point for Butinarjeva
ravine route is Vrsic
pass (1.611 mtrs) at the heart of Julian Alps
, situated some 12 kilometers south of Kranjska Gora
More info about how to get there you can find on Mojstrovka
Alpine climbing at Butinarjeva grapa Kepe - First part of Butinarjeva grapa
From the very top of Vrsic
pass go strait up to the end of snowfield below the cliffs of southern ridge, called Grebenec
ravine is the first ravine right of the Vratca
notch where normal (south) route goes between the cliffs.
First part of the ravine is easiest - some 40°/50°. Gradually the route becomes more steep and if the conditions are good there should be no problems. At about 2/3 of the route you will reach small rock barrier (good for making anchors). From here you will have to climb the steepest part of this route (some 10-15 mtrs) that is steep up to 70°. After that continue straight up towards the top of Grebenec
Best way to descent back to Vrsic
pass is via normal (south) route.
More info on Mojstrovka southern route
Škrlatica & Prisojnik from Grebenec ridge
From the ravine itself Martuljek
group and Prisojnik
are visible all the time. Once you exit the ravine, on top of Grebenec
ridge, beautiful view opens on the other side towards Trenta
, Veliko Spicje
, Bavski Grintavec
and Mala Mojstrovka
Good mountaineering shoes, helmet, ice axes, crampons and rope.
Sometimes during winter time road for Vrsic
pass can be closed for cars, therefore you have to inform yourself accordingly.