I climbed this as a ropeless scramble in 1962 when there were still cables. It was billed as the quickest way up at the time. It was also the quickest way to die if you were a hiker like me and weren't careful. The chimney was in shadow and tended to retain ice even into August. It was dicey trying to find firm footing while hanging on to the cable. It made the descent via the Keyhole route seem easy, and very long.
A fun and fast route!
Nice to come down this way also, to avoid the crowds.
Finally made it.
totally worth humping a rope all that way
Fun day. Was a bit windy and cold but pretty mild for what Longs is capable of dishing out in the winter. 10 hours car to car.
Very beautiful free solo climb with some ice and snow so crampons were necessary. After the crux it was nice and easy climbing.
Came up beaver and descended old cables. We did one rap on the descent, otherwise downclimbed. Felt much easier than 5.4.
A far preferable route to the Keyhole. Way shorter, more direct, and more fun! We brought a rack just in case we wanted to protect the route, but it was dry so we soloed it in rock shoes. I wish the technical section was longer.
We were trying to climb Stettners Ledges, but ended up changing routes after a lot of rockfall (including some medium impacts) scared us off.
9-6-17: Took Lauren up the Cable's Route for her first alpine route.
Been meaning to climb this for a while. I was a bit disappointed. Decent scrambling above the technical stuff. Quick route to the summit.
This route is ok. Perhaps it's much better in the winter. We carried a light rack and a rope for the technical pitch. It was quite wet, so I'm not sure I would've wanted to free it. Lot's of loose rocks scrambling to the summit from the cables section.
Very enjoyable mixed climb.
Guess I'm not great at judging distance....I was expecting the technical pitch to be longer. A great climb none the less. I was suprised at the lack of snow on the N. Face right now, but what snow was there was mixed hard and sugar. It was interesting climbing the rock on the crux with crampons.
I will probably never do the keyhole route in summer again. This route is not that exosed and way more direct.
We were below you Tim, hit that same sugar. What a fun route though.
Awesome climb! crux pitch was very enjoyable. Was a little hairy towards the top when we ran into some stretches of sugar snow and couldnt gain any purchase with our axes. Is certainly one of my favorites.
Fun and exhilerating climb!
This was my first technical winter ascent and it was a great one. Very cold in the shadows on the face but well worth it.
led jim up the interesting north face to add some spice to his rainier training regimen. the route wasn't overly challenging yet exciting at the same time with a mixture of rock and snow climbing. certainly a memorable day!
This was my first winter technical climb. It was a long day. The technical pitch was easy. Once above the technical pitch, we got off route. It became extremely steep and I became uncomfortable on 65-70 degree snow slopes un-roped. We turned around about 200 feet below the summit. The rappel was fun, and I learned a lot this day.