Cake Walk

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 34.02396°N / 116.17815°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.9 -
Sign the Climber's Log

The Approach

This climb is on The Freeway Wall in Lost Horse Valley, one of the largest and more pronounced walls in Lost Horse Valley. After entering the Monument from the west entrance, follow the Loop Road until Ranger Station Road is reached and turn right on it (southwest). Pass the first pullout with a restroom (on the left, close to the Loop Road) and travel on the gravel road for 3/10th's of a mile until the next pullout is reached (on the left hand side). Park here.

Looking south, one can see the Freeway Wall up a boulder strewn gulley on the left side. Freeway Wall receives sun most of the day and is an excellent location to climb in the winter months. From the parking area, locate the climbers access trail and head up to the base of the wall, just before in crests at a notch in the skyline (100' feet before it). 'Cake Walk' is the crack that starts off slanting slightly left and makes a short traverse along a horizontal crack, then continues upward to the right.

The Route

Start this fun hand crack by ascending it to a thin horizontal crack. Once at the horiziontal crack, friction out 8 feet to the left to meet up with a hand crack that continues up and slightly right. This move from the initial crack to the next is the mental crux, especially for shorter people (reachy in spots). After reaching the next crack, make hand and fist jams as the climb gets steeper. Continue upward on excellent jams and eventually to more featured terrain, next to a left facing dihedral. As the climb peters off in angle, set anchors in the crack next to the dihedral and belay from there. This will prevent rope drag as the next available pro is set back near the top of the wall. One can easily walk off the back side of Freeway Wall and return via a notch to the south.

The Gear

+ 60 meter rope
+ Pro to 2" (nut friendly crack!)
+ Slings