California Dreaming

Page Type
Route
Location:
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.11b

Route Quality: 8 Votes

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Page By:
California Dreaming
Created On: Mar 30, 2001
Last Edited On: Dec 24, 2007

Approach

Same as ONE WAY SUNSET. The route takes the crack/corner above BUSTER CATTLEFIELD. Climb either the 1st pitch of ONE WAY SUNSET or CATTLEFIELD and belay at their common anchor bolts

Route Description

This route was first climbed by Frank Sanders and Liana Kirk in July, 1989. This route is a 5-Star Classic Stem!! As the Best Protected, hard stemming climb on this rock, it should be on your Tower Itinerary!!

Pitch 1.(120 ft, 5.11b) -The Stem- From the bolted belay, two face moves traverse you left to the corner above Buster Cattlefield. Climb this exquisite Dihedral with delicate moves that are well protected. The initial 50 ft is the crux stem and is protected by 5 well placed bolts. The rest of the pitch yeilds to more conventional style and protection.Climb to the hanging belay at the big bolt anchor.

Finish. Rap, Rap, Rap....


Essential Gear

Quickdraws for the bolts and small nuts and TCU's up to #1 Friend size. Sew it up!!

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.