Campanile Basso - Preuss route

Campanile Basso - Preuss route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.16380°N / 10.89280°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: IV+ 1 pass of V
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 5
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log

General Info

the finest short classic climb in the whole range !
Better to do it in the morning, with sun warming the rock and your back while climbing :)

Short (4 or 5 short pitches) very exposed, vertical climb, fantastic rock

Often climbed to get the summit after climbing the Fehrmann (SW dihedral)
Joining the 2 routes you can make a climb of about 500 m with constant difficulties


rif. Brentei or rif. Pedrotti

Route Description

- same way as normal till the "stradone provinciale"
- better reach it through the "camino Scotoni" (4+)

then attach at the centre of the wall and go straight till the top
logical to find
wonderful to climb
very amusing
not for beginners

The route starts from the middle big ledge (stradone provinciale) of Campanile Basso just where the left chimney of the normal route gets it.

The route is very easy to find but, remember, you must always climb in the centre of the wall.
Second pitch starts with a small overhang, climb it, don't cross to the right otherwise you will get (with a very difficult climb) the NE edge (Graffer) ... I did it and coming back was not so fine :)

Campanil Basso - Preuss route
Campanil Basso - Preuss route
Campanil Basso - Preuss route
Campanil Basso - Preuss route

Essential Gear

a good rope : when I climbed it there were 2 pegs, but can be not used :)



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