the finest short classic climb in the whole range !
Better to do it in the morning, with sun warming the rock and your back while climbing :)
Short (4 or 5 short pitches) very exposed, vertical climb, fantastic rock
Often climbed to get the summit after climbing the Fehrmann (SW dihedral)
Joining the 2 routes you can make a climb of about 500 m with constant difficulties
rif. Brentei or rif. Pedrotti
- same way as normal till the "stradone provinciale"
- better reach it through the "camino Scotoni" (4+)
then attach at the centre of the wall and go straight till the top
logical to find
wonderful to climb
not for beginners
The route starts from the middle big ledge (stradone provinciale) of Campanile Basso just where the left chimney of the normal route gets it.
The route is very easy to find but, remember, you must always climb in the centre of the wall.
Second pitch starts with a small overhang, climb it, don't cross to the right otherwise you will get (with a very difficult climb) the NE edge (Graffer) ... I did it and coming back was not so fine :)
a good rope : when I climbed it there were 2 pegs, but can be not used :)