Campanile Basso - Preuss route

Page Type
Trento, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
IV+ 1 pass of V
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 10 Votes

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Campanile Basso - Preuss route
Created On: Dec 10, 2003
Last Edited On: May 30, 2010

General Info

the finest short classic climb in the whole range !
Better to do it in the morning, with sun warming the rock and your back while climbing :)

Short (4 or 5 short pitches) very exposed, vertical climb, fantastic rock

Often climbed to get the summit after climbing the Fehrmann (SW dihedral)
Joining the 2 routes you can make a climb of about 500 m with constant difficulties


rif. Brentei or rif. Pedrotti

Route Description

- same way as normal till the "stradone provinciale"
- better reach it through the "camino Scotoni" (4+)

then attach at the centre of the wall and go straight till the top
logical to find
wonderful to climb
very amusing
not for beginners

The route starts from the middle big ledge (stradone provinciale) of Campanile Basso just where the left chimney of the normal route gets it.

The route is very easy to find but, remember, you must always climb in the centre of the wall.
Second pitch starts with a small overhang, climb it, don't cross to the right otherwise you will get (with a very difficult climb) the NE edge (Graffer) ... I did it and coming back was not so fine :)

Campanil Basso - Preuss route
Campanil Basso - Preuss route
Campanil Basso - Preuss route
Campanil Basso - Preuss route

Essential Gear

a good rope : when I climbed it there were 2 pegs, but can be not used :)