Canale dei Carrubi

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.03481°N / 10.32397°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Alpine AD-
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Canale dei Carrubi (Pania della Croce SW side)

 

Though not the highest summit, Pania della Croce is a mighty mountain considered the queen of Alpi Apuane. It's the most famous and popular summit, with elegant lines and an almost conical shape, culminating with a flat ridge on which you can recognize: to the South the main summit with an altitude of 1859 m, a nearby Northern fore-summit, a Northern shoulder and below this a small saddle named Callare, after which the ridge continues towards its neighbor Pizzo delle Saette. 

A winter view of Pania della Croce
A winter view of Pania della Croce

 

Pania della Croce SW side is engraved by a long gully, running with a pretty regular course, the Canale dei Carrubi. The ascent of this gully, deeply enclosed, is a great classic winter climb of Alpi Apuane inside an exceptional setting. Being exposed to the South-West, it must be climbed early in the morning or choosing a winter cold day. With little snow it gets harder a bit, especially in its lower part.

 

Snow cornices near the summit, Pania della Croce
Snow cornices near the summit, Pania della Croce
Exit of Canale dei Carrubi, Pania della Croce
Exit of Canale dei Carrubi, Pania della Croce

 

Getting There

The starting point to climb is Foce di Mosceta, located between Pania della Croce and Monte Corchia.

Getting to Foce di Mosceta

From A12 Motorway exit Versilia, follow the signposts to Seravezza. Here take Via Provinciale direction Castelnuovo di Garfagnana to Levigliani. Once you reach Levigliani continue to the eastern end of the village, where to the right it starts a road that leads to Antro del Corchia (30 minutes on paved road). At the point where the road forks take the path n. 9 with several hairpins (the so-called "Voltoline") and reach Passo dell'Alpino. From here follow the ridge that continues almost flat through a fir forest up to Foce Mosceta.

 

Alpi Apuane in winter time
Alpi Apuane in winter time
Summit of Pania della Croce
Summit of Pania della Croce

 

Route Description

Pania della Croce South-West side - Canale dei Carrubi

 

Difficulty: Alpine AD-, 50° max Length: 500 m. Exposure: mainly SW First winter ascent: S. and L. Borghese, E. Vangelisti 26-3-1896

A classic winter climb of Alpi Apuane inside a deeply enclosed gully; the most technical part is the upper one.

 

Inside the snow gully, Canale dei Carrubi
The snow gully
Spire inside Canale dei Carrubi, Pania della Croce
Spire inside Canale dei Carrubi
Canale dei Carrubi upper crossing
Canale dei Carrubi upper crossing

 

From Foce di Mosceta (signpost) take the path to Foce di Valli, which slightly uphill traverse the base of the wide South-West side of Pania della Croce. After the big rocky buttresses that characterize the left side of the slope, you reach starting point of the gully (at about 1350 m altitude). The climb, initially on some short rocky drop, which can be delicate with few snow, continues in the bottom of the gully, winding but regular, on a slope reaching max. 50°.

 

Exposed and steep exit of Canale dei Carrubi
Exit of Canale dei Carrubi
Summit ridge, Pania della Croce
Summit ridge

At about 1700 m of altitude on the right there is a large slope, sloping and very exposed. Following it (classic exit) you will reach the vicinity of the South ridge. Hence, rising slightly to the left of the crest, you reach the big summit cross.

 

Pania della Croce fore-summit
Pania della Croce fore-summit
Pania della Croce, start of the descent route
Pania della Croce, start of the descent route

 

 

Descent - Following the Normal route to Rifugio Del Freo

Descent route, Pania della Croce

Descent route

Essential Gear

Take the conventional equipment for a climb of this kind: 50 m. rope, 2 ice axes, crampons, harness, helmet, carabiners, 2 or 3 slings, ice screws

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking, even if all Alpi Apuane range is situated inside a natural park – "Alpi Apuane Natural Park" – established in 1985 to protected the milieu.

Hut

november 2004view on pania...
Rifugio Del Freo and Pania della Croce

 

Rifugio Giuseppe Del Freo - Pietrapana 1180 m, Club Alpino Italiano Sez. Viareggio

Situation: Foce di Mosceta, at the foot of Pania della Croce and Pizzo delle Saette Open: from June to Setpember and week-ends Size: 57 persons Getting There: from Levigliani or from Fociomboli Hut's phone : 0039-0584-778007

When to climb

In wintertime during cold periods

Meteo

Meteo Toscana

Guidebooks and maps

 

Pania della Croce map

 

 

 

Apuane Alps Guidebook

“Alpi Apuane” by E. Montagna – A. Nerli – A. Sabbadini Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia - CAI - TCI



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.