Cannons Northern Slab climbs

Page Type
New Hampshire, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Ice Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.6 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 0 Votes

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Cannons Northern Slab climbs
Created On: May 7, 2014
Last Edited On: May 9, 2014


One of my first routes ever on Cannon. The last four pitches are excellent and I am surprised by how little activity this route sees. Possibly due to some negative reviews online. Definitely a better alternative to Lakeview, with an easy option to rappel if the weather gets nasty (if you haven't been trapped on Cannon in a surprise rainstorm.... I certainly don't recommend it). BEWARE of rapid changes in the weather in Franconia Notch people!!

Getting There

Cannon is located on the west side of Franconia Notch, along route 93 about 10 miles north of the town of Lincoln, NH. There are two parking lots: a large one at Profile Lake, and a smaller one at Boise Rock which is about a mile to the south and directly across the Black Dike. The Profile Lake lot involves making a U turn if you are coming from the south - you have to do this at the Cannon tramway exit. If you park at the Boise Rock lot you don't need to turn around, but you must then cross the highway to get to the approach.

To actually get to the wall there is a trail running along the entire base; access trails to individual routes branch off from it One goes up on the north end approaching the SLABS, another in the center to the Main Face, and another to the Black Dike/Whitney-Gilman area near the south end. The base of the wall is a talus slope and caution should be excercised; in the winter, parts of the slope can be avalanche prone after very heavy snowfalls.

Route Description

P1-Climb the dike from where the dike touches down to the ground to a 2 bolt anchor under the old man's dog. 5.4  

P2-Climb right from the belay through some loose rock and trend up and right staying to the right of the old man's dog, you should go past a 4" birch on this pitch, stay just to the right of it and belay at the start of some 3rd/4th class slabs. 5.4  

P3-climb 100' of 3rd/4th class and belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the base of the indented slab.  

P4-Climb the right hand margin of the slab, bushy and a little loose till you get to a medium sized tree ledge with a OLD 1 bolt anchor next to a perfect crack. 5.4  

P5-Climb straight up from the belay going under an easy roof to a 4" crack in a beautiful dihedral to another roof, pull the roof on the right and you will join the second to last pitch on lakeview near the top.  Sinker jams on this pitch. 5.5  

P6-The archival hump ( aka Ride the Horse) and the classic corner to the top.  Belay off cables. 

Essential Gear

Standard Rack

External Links

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