missoula - Oct 4, 2020 8:00 am Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2020
Rocky Mountaineers party of three
On a beautiful fall day, a group of three Rocky Mountaineers climbed Canyon peak via the north ridge. Led By Forest Dean, and accompanied by Brian Kercher, the three of us started at 7:30am. Getting to the north ridge we noticed pockets of snow on many parts of the route, which made the ascent a bit more time consuming. Six rappels off from the summit got us back to our stashed gear at 6:00pm. Back to the trailhead at 8:30pm with headlamps! My 10th of 35 Bitterroot 9kers.
Bretterik13 - Aug 6, 2019 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2019
Descent route
I know there's some similar information posted on the site, but I thought I'd provide a little extra info on a descent option.
If you'd prefer to avoid descending the North ridge, descending via the South ridge is pretty straightforward. From the summit, look south, down into a drainage that ultimately leads into Sawtooth Creek. There's one tree, that as of 2018 and 2019, has numerous slings on it. One 30 meter rappel (single 60 m rope) puts you down into safe 3rd/4th class terrain. From there, it's reasonable to side hill over towards the weakness in the South ridge that descends via 3rd class down to Wyant Lake.
I would strongly advise against attempting to descend all the way into Sawtooth Creek and out to the Sawtooth Creek trailhead.. only heartache awaits you.
funkwithoutjunk - Jul 2, 2015 9:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2015
Loop through Blodgette/Canyon
Awesome overnighter hike. I parked at Blodgette Canyon and hiked up to High Lake on the 28th. Camped at the beautiful lake. Next day went up the south ridge, summitted Canyon, and then descended via the slope that shoots off to the East down to Wyatt and Canyon Lake's. Then down to the road and hiked road back to the car. It was an awesome, exhausting, and beautiful hike. Lots of exposure on top. This has got to be my favorite peak I have done in the Bitterroots.
alpine climber - Oct 8, 2010 3:10 pm Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2010
3rd time - north ridge
Great exposure peak for the Bitterroots. Bring a rope if you're not confident making moves with exposure. I'm thinking a winter ascent might be worth the time...anyone interested?
DBachen - Nov 8, 2008 4:38 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009
SE Ridge
Second times the charm, summited via the SE ridge in 13 hours car to car, long day. Still winter up there so the aproach from the lake was mostly a snow climb, ridge started as an exposed hike and soon became solid 4th and 5th class climbing. weather was less than perfect so also got to climb in the clouds. would highly recommend this route.
Climbed the Southeast Ridge from Wyant Lake solo. Basically I hiked up the talus chute south of Wyant to the ridge, then along the ridge to near the summit. Blocked by sketchy class 4 along the ridge so I traversed west across the south face of Canyon Peak to the Southwest ridge and then summited from there. The downclimb was pretty sketchy without protection.
aintlifegrand - Mar 23, 2007 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004
S. Ridge
After 3 failed winter attempts on N. Ridge, we cheated and did S. ridge in summer. Near the top there is an awesome 'boardwalk' with incredible exposure. A very memorable bitterroot climb
alpine climber - Aug 21, 2006 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006
west face/north ridge
Ben and I hit up this fun peak once again. Started climbing on the west face and ended up doing some traverses that brought us close to the north ridge. Saw 3 other people summit that day, kinda odd. Fun rap down the middle of the west face and then a hike out via High Lake.
Michael Hoyt - Aug 19, 2006 11:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006
North Ridge Route
My brother and I made a good "no equipment" attempt at this peak, relying mostly on Ben Johnnson's descriptions. Unfortunately our route finding abilities must not be as good as Ben's and we had to bail out a few hundred feet from the summit.
We took a detour on our return to recon a south ridge attempt on a later date. From what we could see it looked doable, but I would appreciate input from other area climbers.
alpine climber - Jun 27, 2006 1:55 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2005
north ridge
From what I remember it was a great day to finally bag this peak. I think it took about 10 hours from car to peak to camp so this is doable in a day...yeah, hoping to try the east or west face sometime.
missoula - Oct 4, 2020 8:00 am Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2020
Rocky Mountaineers party of threeOn a beautiful fall day, a group of three Rocky Mountaineers climbed Canyon peak via the north ridge. Led By Forest Dean, and accompanied by Brian Kercher, the three of us started at 7:30am. Getting to the north ridge we noticed pockets of snow on many parts of the route, which made the ascent a bit more time consuming. Six rappels off from the summit got us back to our stashed gear at 6:00pm. Back to the trailhead at 8:30pm with headlamps! My 10th of 35 Bitterroot 9kers.
Bretterik13 - Aug 6, 2019 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2019
Descent routeI know there's some similar information posted on the site, but I thought I'd provide a little extra info on a descent option.
If you'd prefer to avoid descending the North ridge, descending via the South ridge is pretty straightforward. From the summit, look south, down into a drainage that ultimately leads into Sawtooth Creek. There's one tree, that as of 2018 and 2019, has numerous slings on it. One 30 meter rappel (single 60 m rope) puts you down into safe 3rd/4th class terrain. From there, it's reasonable to side hill over towards the weakness in the South ridge that descends via 3rd class down to Wyant Lake.
I would strongly advise against attempting to descend all the way into Sawtooth Creek and out to the Sawtooth Creek trailhead.. only heartache awaits you.
funkwithoutjunk - Jul 2, 2015 9:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2015
Loop through Blodgette/CanyonAwesome overnighter hike. I parked at Blodgette Canyon and hiked up to High Lake on the 28th. Camped at the beautiful lake. Next day went up the south ridge, summitted Canyon, and then descended via the slope that shoots off to the East down to Wyatt and Canyon Lake's. Then down to the road and hiked road back to the car. It was an awesome, exhausting, and beautiful hike. Lots of exposure on top. This has got to be my favorite peak I have done in the Bitterroots.
alpine climber - Oct 8, 2010 3:10 pm Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2010
3rd time - north ridgeGreat exposure peak for the Bitterroots. Bring a rope if you're not confident making moves with exposure. I'm thinking a winter ascent might be worth the time...anyone interested?
DBachen - Nov 8, 2008 4:38 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009
SE RidgeSecond times the charm, summited via the SE ridge in 13 hours car to car, long day. Still winter up there so the aproach from the lake was mostly a snow climb, ridge started as an exposed hike and soon became solid 4th and 5th class climbing. weather was less than perfect so also got to climb in the clouds. would highly recommend this route.
edevart - Jul 24, 2007 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2007
Southeast Ridge from Wyant LakeClimbed the Southeast Ridge from Wyant Lake solo. Basically I hiked up the talus chute south of Wyant to the ridge, then along the ridge to near the summit. Blocked by sketchy class 4 along the ridge so I traversed west across the south face of Canyon Peak to the Southwest ridge and then summited from there. The downclimb was pretty sketchy without protection.
aintlifegrand - Mar 23, 2007 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004
S. RidgeAfter 3 failed winter attempts on N. Ridge, we cheated and did S. ridge in summer. Near the top there is an awesome 'boardwalk' with incredible exposure. A very memorable bitterroot climb
alpine climber - Aug 21, 2006 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006
west face/north ridgeBen and I hit up this fun peak once again. Started climbing on the west face and ended up doing some traverses that brought us close to the north ridge. Saw 3 other people summit that day, kinda odd. Fun rap down the middle of the west face and then a hike out via High Lake.
Michael Hoyt - Aug 19, 2006 11:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006
North Ridge RouteMy brother and I made a good "no equipment" attempt at this peak, relying mostly on Ben Johnnson's descriptions. Unfortunately our route finding abilities must not be as good as Ben's and we had to bail out a few hundred feet from the summit.
We took a detour on our return to recon a south ridge attempt on a later date. From what we could see it looked doable, but I would appreciate input from other area climbers.
alpine climber - Jun 27, 2006 1:55 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2005
north ridgeFrom what I remember it was a great day to finally bag this peak. I think it took about 10 hours from car to peak to camp so this is doable in a day...yeah, hoping to try the east or west face sometime.
benjohnson - Feb 10, 2006 1:06 am
Route Climbed: north ridge/east face Date Climbed: 7/23/05Incredible view from the top. Beautiful exposed ridge right near the summit, dropping a thousand feet on either side of a five foot walkway.