Cap Rock, Southside, 5.8-5.13a

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Fall, Winter
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Cap Rock, Southside, 5.8-5.13a
Created On: Apr 21, 2011
Last Edited On: Mar 30, 2018

Overview/Approach

Catch a Falling Star, 5.8
Dow leading Catch a Falling Star, 5.8

On my second trip to Joshua Tree National Park, just four weeks after the permanent removal of nine of my toe nails, my wife and a friend were looking for the opportunity to take advantage of my healing toes and tick off as many of the 5.7-5.9 classics as we could before I got bored. The Jtree single pitch granite routes were no doubt the best place to gain confidence back in my feet. We were burning through the multi-asterisk routes in Miramontes new guidebook (2011) when a local friend suggested we get on one I had not heard of, Catch a Falling Star, 5.8, on the southeast side of Cap Rock. We were camped at Ryan Campground and Cap Rock is located just one road west of the campsite. Catch a Falling Star is on the middle of three large rocks that make up the Cap Rock destination. The main formation is a dome that sits at the south end overlooking the parking area and serves as the namesake for the area. The southeastern exposure for Catch a Falling Star obviously makes this route a great morning destination during cooler weather. 

Catch a Falling Star is the only double asterisk route on Cap Rock in Miramontes guide although there are quite a few single ones. He has it divided up into north and south side as well as a parking lot area section although it should really just be thought of as south and north and thus dependent on temperature as to which side you climb. Continue 1.7 miles along Park Blvd east of Intersection Rock to Keys View Road. Turn right (south) and pull into the paved parking area on your left. The trail to the southeast side starts at the restrooms.

Routes Listed Left to Right, South and East Side

Visual Nightmare- 60’- 5.10a/*

Indirect Start- 60’- 5.10c/

Slim Pickens- 60’- 5.10b/*

Slimmer Pickens- 60’- 5.10d/

Nose to the Grindstone- 60’- 5.11aR/*

Robo Cop- 80’- 5.9*/Robo Cop and Terminator are mostly slab routes, side by side, sharing the same easy chimney start. Robo is the better of the two. Rap hangers at the top, don't use the rap rings further away unless you go down the back side. 70m rope makes it from the rap hangers, no worries. I placed one large piece, then clipped bolts. Dow

Terminator- 80’- 5.9*/ Sorry, all I have from my old notes are:  Bad rock, don't recommend. Dow

Dunce Cap- 80’- 5.13a/*

Hey Taxi- 100’- 5.11a/

Catch a Falling Star- 60’- 5.8**/ Excellent and fun traverse crack. Took all sizes of medium gear. A few slabby moves at the end. Great am sunny climb. Dow

Nobody Walks in LA- 45’- 5.8/

Catch a Falling Car- 45’- 5.10c/

Tumbling Dice- 45’- 5.10a/

Dunce Cap- 80’- 5.13a/*