This was my first climb of Capitol. I did the standard route from Capitol Creek trailhead. I traveled light. I slept in a bivy bag to save weight. After stashing my overnight stuff in the morning I then got to enjoy the famous knife-edge. As visually striking as it is, I think the loose stuff on the upper mountain presents more risk.
Great mountain and climb. We did the ridge back to the Daly saddle. It seemed pretty crumbly compared to the knife edge but what doesn't? Fun.
Gorgeous mountain the entire hike. Can't wait to go back.
Hiked the Northeast Ridge from camp at Capitol Lake with my friend Keith. I agree with many of the other submitters that the Knife Edge was not the most difficult part of the hike. I thought that getting past K2 and going up the final stretch to the summit were the most difficult sections.
When I was very young and very cocky, I moved to Colorado and gave this peak a shot and had my butt handed to me. I got off route and was high up the ridge en route to K2 when clouds moved in and I couldn't see anything other than the point of the ridge between my legs and open air in all directions. Capital Peak became my nemesis, and I vowed one day to return. In 2002 I finally got my chance. Having gained more experience, route finding wasn't an issue, and the knife-edge wasn't terrifying. I cruised up the mountain and back to camp. I'd always thought peakbagging was a fitness thing, not a skill/wisdom/preparedness thing. Anyways, I learned my lesson that day, and Capitol has gone from being my nemesis to being my favorite peak.
All peaks should have a "Knife Edge" route...it just sounds cool.
beautiful area. not many people on the mountain the day we were there either. Knife ridge lots of fun. The ridge between capitol and snow mass is pretty cool lookin.
Got caught in a quick thunderstorm as we crossed the knife edge on the return. We summited at 9am and I've played it over in my head again and again. The weather went from no clouds to thunderstorm in 1 hour. If we left the summit one hour earlier, we would have been where all the lightning developed near the saddle of Mt Daly and Capitol. Great day and an amazing mountain other than that.
It pays to climb on a weekday. With only my partner to worry about, there were no rockfall issues on the face above the knife-edge ridge. If you take your time, the face can be done almost entirely as 3rd class climbing with an occasional 4th class move. For me, the knife-edge was the crux of the route. Perfect weather, awesome climb. Can't wait to go climb Clark Peak.
I had a blast on Capitol. The knife edge really wasn't the crux of the route...there were several more intimidating spots...overall a great day.
Had the route to myself. Excellent weather, great snow, as spectacular as anticipated.
But it won't be my last! One of the most enjoyable climbs ever. Great Daddy-daughter date.
Took three tries and finally summited in the fog. Great approach with the peak in view. Climbing back up to the trailhead at the end is no fun. The scrambling was pretty good
Even though we climbed Capitol Peak a long while ago, it is clear in my memory as an awesome trip. Nate and I spent the night surrounded by high winds and we were worried that a storm would stop out climb. But, as dawn broke, the sky was clear and we had a fantastic day scrambling around, and looking over the knife ridge. I peed my pants. just kidding. we summited and walked back to the car same day. A great memory to have with such a wonderful friend...
One of my favorite mountains. It was my first class 4 climb and still I consider it to be one of the best.
P.S. my friend walked across the knife edge...I got a picture.
3/14/14- andean-like climb(AD+/D-) with matt, greg and jason. simul-climbed the majority of the route. i thought we weren't going to summit, but we pulled through as a team! hiked out afterwards and got to the car at 2am! a 20-hour day. #60/100 winter
7/14/07- late start with jamie after hiking into camp after dark and arriving at 1:30am. all good with bluebird skies the entire weekend, love camping near capitol lake!
9/3/06- climbed with chicagotransplant and we had an excellent adventure! we stayed on the ridge direct after the knife except for one overhanging spot. it probably went 5.0, maybe low 5th class. i'll come back for this route some other time.
Climbed with Shanahan96, we decided to stick to the ridge crest above the knife edge instead of skirting and following the standard route. Great ridge, as solid as the knife with some good low 5th class moves and a couple more knife sections to get the blood pumping. Perfect day, no clouds, not too cold and not to breezy.
This was the toughest 14er for me as I did it as a dayhike. The knife edge was pretty much as expected for me. I choose the grab ridge and look for footholds method. A very long day as a dayhike with spectacular views.
Nice summit and awesome sunrise on the way in. Climbed with good old cp0915, who had the grace not to complain about my lack of speed as I limped pitifully out after slipping and bonking the smack out of my knee on the way up. Moral: you need to watch your step on all terrain, not just the 4th class stuff.
What a fantastic day! Our (climbed together with 2 other Danish guys) first class 4 climb so we were a little slow. We did the Class 4 traverse from Daly saddle and sort of lost our way on the way back on the Ditch trail, so it was a 16h day form TH and back!
But absolutely a fantastic day and very nice weather except for the last hour or so.