Fun climb. We climbed the lower pitch as well, it was in good condition. We split the upper crux pitch into 2 leads. Lower section of the top curtain was the crux, WI5- some funky climbing to be had there.
First pitch was hard, brittle, ice, second pitch was not formed so we walked through the snow to the base of the WI5 column - very chandeliered and mushroomed. above that were a succession of WI3 steps, we climbed a couple before deeming it not worthwhile.
Did two lines with Brian, both as two pitches. I led center/right; he led left/left. Both were 5/4 with the left being somewhat harder for each pitch. Left has a great bolted belay in a cave. Highly recommended.
Climbed it in freezing cold conditions, with old Stubui (sp?) ice axes, and old ice screws (i.e. no swivel mechanism to help drive the screw in). Wasn't particularly fun, but we made it.
The wettest conditions I've ever climbed in... thorough soaking due to my mistake of leaving the goretex at home. Of course that made the climbing easier due to soft, plastic ice.
Thanks to Steve Larson and Rob Yang for a great day! Next time I'm bringing a pop tart!