Kor-Ingells, 5.9, 11/18/95, 11/5/05
North Chimney, 5.9, 12/2/95
Did this route for my second time and found it somewhat enjoyable. I did the second pitch completely different than my first time up it, so I changed the page to hopefully avoid any kind of confussion. The first and last bolts were kind of sketchy. The first bolt (protecting the first crux 3/8") sticks out almost an inch. I tightend up the third (1/4) bolt with my fingers before commiting to the crux (probably not making any difference other than a psychological one). It was a beautiful day, but there were 5 groups in line behind us. People should dare to get on the more obscure routes rather than waste a day waiting to do a moderately enjoyable "classic".
Climbed this route with my brother Mike in the middle of July. We brought a single quart of water that we finished off before we even got to the base. Sweated up the slimey chimney and finally topped out totally dehydrated. We had a gallon of water waiting for us back at the jeep and the thought of that water is the only thing that got through the descent and hike back. One mouthful of the scorching hot water that had been sitting in the interior of the vehicle all day, and we realized we couldn't drink it. But all was well in the end as we hauled to Moab and quickly found someone to sponser us at the local pub and before I knew it I downed five straight cool ones. We then ate a huge meal and both slept like babies that night. That was our first real desert climb and needless to say we were taught the importance of water out west.
Great route! Went as a party of 3. Initial cracks were stellar, chimney was fun, and last bit of face was sweet. Were the last party to leave the summit and then came the epic descent. At the end of the first rappel, one rope swung out of sight with a knot in the end. Ended up leaving most of that rope swinging in the wind, rapping on a 50 m. Got back to camp around 9:00. Poured out our friends fire with precious beer when the wind shipped up. Wind died immediately, and we went to eat. Needless to say, they were a bit angry.
The calcite on the first pitch has to be one of the coolest features of climbing Castleton. Best pro in the desert, as I see it. Wonderful route, very worthwhile summit and exhilirating rappel. Getting the clip on the bolt that begins the second pitch is scary. A number 8 camalot would really protect the crack well!! We went back in April 2005 for the Kor-Ingalls. What a workout. Very heady on the third pitch, but a great feature. Colby should get away from the classics (twice, no less!!) and try some obscure routes in the desert:-).
coundn't have picked a better day for the climb, the weather was perfect. the route was about what was expected, fun and somewhat demanding at the same time. the calcite deposits do make for some tricky/unconventional moves.
A fun route, yes with some wide and slippery chimney and offwidth sections.