missihawk - Jul 24, 2023 3:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2023
WNW from Klein Matterhorn
Climbed it from Klein Matterhorn. Very nice finish with some higher inclination climbing and the nice snow ridge to the top.
The way back the snow was getting way to soft and it took us longer then anticipated.
jck - Aug 16, 2022 1:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2022
Normal
3 hours round trip from Sella Hut. Started early to avoid other parties on the ridge. Bit windy but crystal clear weather.
The summit ridge is really nice.
Falk - May 7, 2020 6:57 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2020
Normal Route
Just a little too crowded, especially on the summit ridge...
Alberto Rampini - Sep 16, 2018 4:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1983
Castore
From Quintino Sella hut
boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 6:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008
W-E traverse solo
Traversed it W to E solo.
andre hangaard - Sep 16, 2016 9:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2016
Nice and scenic
After a good night up in the Matterhorn Lodge at Klein Matterhorn we stepped out on the Breithorn plateau and made our way towards Castor. The snow was rather slushy but improved during the second part of the approach.
The trail up along the SE ridge normal route was in very good condition. After the easy bergschrund it became steeper (45°-50°) where I belayed my partner Åsa from above in two pitches. Some small patches of ice. The summit ridge we climbed with high concentration and then enjoyed the splendid weather from the top. The descent back to the Klein Matterhorn was a long walk as expected.
rob2681 - Sep 2, 2016 7:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2016
Castor Summit
I spent the night at the Gandegghütte. Met the mountain guide and other companion climber in the morning at the Trockner Steg lift. We took the lift to Klein Matterhorn to start our journey.
The travel across the Monte Rosa plateau went good. Our guide told us crampons were not necessary which made the trip a bit faster. The ascent was straightforward until a steep section where we used hand and footholds in the ice with our iaxes to assist through this short section. At the top of this section is a small plateau before the final summit ridge. My companion decided to wait here, I think due to some dizziness. So the mountain guide and I made the last section to the top. It was very narrow and I had to concentrate with each step. The return to Klein Matterhorn was really tiring back over the Monte Rosa plateau.
In spite of the good feeling from summiting, the weekend was tragic in that 3 climbs were killed approaching Castor from the other side in the afternoon. News reports state that a snow cornice gave way. Then 3 more climbers were killed on Pollux (which is close to Castor) when a slip happened. It is thought that the warm temperatures are melting the permafrost and resulting in instability of the snow/rocks. http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/mountaineering-accident_three-swiss-climbers-die-on-monte-rosa-massif/42404016
Lodewijk - Oct 30, 2015 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2015
Ridge to the sky
The ridge to the sky...is as awesome as it looks on all the photos here on SP. Climbed with Roeland, Pieter and Werner from the Ayaz hut (after Climbing Pollux first) over the WNW-flank. Crevasses on the WNW-Flank and the last part to reach the summit ridge was quite steep:45-50 degrees. We traversed Castor, passed Felikhorn and went down to the Quintino Sella Hut. Clear blue skies all day and great views, a perfect day.
Rafa Bartolome - Jul 19, 2015 10:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2015
nice ridge
We enjoyed a lot the ridge of Castor in a perfect day without a cloud... it was an amazing place!!!!!
We begun in rifugio Mezzalama (guide d'ayas was full) reaching the summit in 5h descending to Quintino sella.
The route of west face had changed a lot because we needed to cross 4 crevasses without bridges and some sections over it had 40-45º, specially the last section to reach the summit North with 45-50º (but with a fixed rope and good steps)
viktor vaughn - Jan 29, 2015 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009
Italian normal route
Perfect weather the whole week. We ascended the Breithorn, Castor, Pollux, Parrotspitze and Signalkuppe. Slept at the Monta Rosa Hut.
alpinbeta - Sep 20, 2014 9:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2009
Normal Route from Rif. Sella
Clear day and good ice and snow conditions
markhallam - Sep 14, 2014 3:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2014
Climbed with Pollux
With my son Keith, climbed both Pollux and Castor from Rossi e Volante Bivvy Hut. We did furthest away, Castor via WNW Flank - and then did Pollux via SW ridge, 'on the way back'.
All in all, this was a fantastic day out, in near perfect conditions - a real stroke of luck after all the uncertain weather recently.
Castor W flank a bit of a slog - and quite cold in the morning out of the sun (we made it minus 10 C with a 40km/hour wind to cool things further). But the summit ridge was a total delight - really airy - and with sensational views all round.
Donno - Sep 6, 2014 8:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2014
WNW Flank
Traversed from Klein Matterhorn w/Scott, descending to Quintino Sella Hut. Waited out a storm day then climbed Liskamm.
p-mike - Sep 19, 2013 6:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
Normal Route from Quintino Sella Hut
Normal Route from Quintino Sella Hut on a perfect sunny day!
With my father Beppe, my brother Marco and our friends Dario, Bruno and Massimo.
Jurgen - Jul 29, 2013 8:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2013
Castor from Kl. Matterhorn
Nice day trip from the Kl Matterhorn. Afterwords we climbed the Pollux. Great conditions and beautiful views.
KoenVl - Jul 9, 2013 5:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2013
From Testa Grigia
Started at Testa Grigia. A rather long (18-19km in total), but very beautiful climb, specially at the end with stunning views from a superb snowridge towards the summit!
JoaoNeves - Sep 17, 2012 4:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2012
From valle d'Ayas hut
I summit the Castor together with my good friend Pol, carrying a 20Kg++ load worth of baackpacking... crazy stuff!
But it was just great! probably one of the most spectacular thing I've done in my life... so far.
Silvia Mazzani - Sep 2, 2012 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1983
Normal Route
From Quintino Sella Hut.
RyanHoover - Aug 28, 2012 1:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2012
Castor Traverse
Fun climb, beautiful views, and less crowded then it's neighbor Pollux.
missihawk - Jul 24, 2023 3:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2023
WNW from Klein MatterhornClimbed it from Klein Matterhorn. Very nice finish with some higher inclination climbing and the nice snow ridge to the top.
The way back the snow was getting way to soft and it took us longer then anticipated.
jck - Aug 16, 2022 1:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2022
Normal3 hours round trip from Sella Hut. Started early to avoid other parties on the ridge. Bit windy but crystal clear weather.
The summit ridge is really nice.
Falk - May 7, 2020 6:57 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2020
Normal RouteJust a little too crowded, especially on the summit ridge...
Alberto Rampini - Sep 16, 2018 4:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1983
CastoreFrom Quintino Sella hut
boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 6:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008
W-E traverse soloTraversed it W to E solo.
andre hangaard - Sep 16, 2016 9:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2016
Nice and scenicAfter a good night up in the Matterhorn Lodge at Klein Matterhorn we stepped out on the Breithorn plateau and made our way towards Castor. The snow was rather slushy but improved during the second part of the approach.
The trail up along the SE ridge normal route was in very good condition. After the easy bergschrund it became steeper (45°-50°) where I belayed my partner Åsa from above in two pitches. Some small patches of ice. The summit ridge we climbed with high concentration and then enjoyed the splendid weather from the top. The descent back to the Klein Matterhorn was a long walk as expected.
rob2681 - Sep 2, 2016 7:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2016
Castor SummitI spent the night at the Gandegghütte. Met the mountain guide and other companion climber in the morning at the Trockner Steg lift. We took the lift to Klein Matterhorn to start our journey.
The travel across the Monte Rosa plateau went good. Our guide told us crampons were not necessary which made the trip a bit faster. The ascent was straightforward until a steep section where we used hand and footholds in the ice with our iaxes to assist through this short section. At the top of this section is a small plateau before the final summit ridge. My companion decided to wait here, I think due to some dizziness. So the mountain guide and I made the last section to the top. It was very narrow and I had to concentrate with each step. The return to Klein Matterhorn was really tiring back over the Monte Rosa plateau.
In spite of the good feeling from summiting, the weekend was tragic in that 3 climbs were killed approaching Castor from the other side in the afternoon. News reports state that a snow cornice gave way. Then 3 more climbers were killed on Pollux (which is close to Castor) when a slip happened. It is thought that the warm temperatures are melting the permafrost and resulting in instability of the snow/rocks. http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/mountaineering-accident_three-swiss-climbers-die-on-monte-rosa-massif/42404016
Lodewijk - Oct 30, 2015 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2015
Ridge to the skyThe ridge to the sky...is as awesome as it looks on all the photos here on SP. Climbed with Roeland, Pieter and Werner from the Ayaz hut (after Climbing Pollux first) over the WNW-flank. Crevasses on the WNW-Flank and the last part to reach the summit ridge was quite steep:45-50 degrees. We traversed Castor, passed Felikhorn and went down to the Quintino Sella Hut. Clear blue skies all day and great views, a perfect day.
Rafa Bartolome - Jul 19, 2015 10:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2015
nice ridgeWe enjoyed a lot the ridge of Castor in a perfect day without a cloud... it was an amazing place!!!!!
We begun in rifugio Mezzalama (guide d'ayas was full) reaching the summit in 5h descending to Quintino sella.
The route of west face had changed a lot because we needed to cross 4 crevasses without bridges and some sections over it had 40-45º, specially the last section to reach the summit North with 45-50º (but with a fixed rope and good steps)
viktor vaughn - Jan 29, 2015 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009
Italian normal routePerfect weather the whole week. We ascended the Breithorn, Castor, Pollux, Parrotspitze and Signalkuppe. Slept at the Monta Rosa Hut.
alpinbeta - Sep 20, 2014 9:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2009
Normal Route from Rif. SellaClear day and good ice and snow conditions
markhallam - Sep 14, 2014 3:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2014
Climbed with PolluxWith my son Keith, climbed both Pollux and Castor from Rossi e Volante Bivvy Hut. We did furthest away, Castor via WNW Flank - and then did Pollux via SW ridge, 'on the way back'.
All in all, this was a fantastic day out, in near perfect conditions - a real stroke of luck after all the uncertain weather recently.
Castor W flank a bit of a slog - and quite cold in the morning out of the sun (we made it minus 10 C with a 40km/hour wind to cool things further). But the summit ridge was a total delight - really airy - and with sensational views all round.
Donno - Sep 6, 2014 8:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2014
WNW FlankTraversed from Klein Matterhorn w/Scott, descending to Quintino Sella Hut. Waited out a storm day then climbed Liskamm.
Simnel - Aug 12, 2014 11:46 am
Traverse..With Steve, Rog and Andy.
p-mike - Sep 19, 2013 6:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
Normal Route from Quintino Sella HutNormal Route from Quintino Sella Hut on a perfect sunny day!
With my father Beppe, my brother Marco and our friends Dario, Bruno and Massimo.
Jurgen - Jul 29, 2013 8:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2013
Castor from Kl. MatterhornNice day trip from the Kl Matterhorn. Afterwords we climbed the Pollux. Great conditions and beautiful views.
KoenVl - Jul 9, 2013 5:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2013
From Testa GrigiaStarted at Testa Grigia. A rather long (18-19km in total), but very beautiful climb, specially at the end with stunning views from a superb snowridge towards the summit!
JoaoNeves - Sep 17, 2012 4:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2012
From valle d'Ayas hutI summit the Castor together with my good friend Pol, carrying a 20Kg++ load worth of baackpacking... crazy stuff!
But it was just great! probably one of the most spectacular thing I've done in my life... so far.
Silvia Mazzani - Sep 2, 2012 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1983
Normal RouteFrom Quintino Sella Hut.
RyanHoover - Aug 28, 2012 1:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2012
Castor TraverseFun climb, beautiful views, and less crowded then it's neighbor Pollux.