Two routes in two days with Chris D. from CO Springs. Led all the pitches. We were the first party on the route, mostly accomplished by soloing the approach to the wall. Not sure if any of the parties behind had a chance of finishing the route. One for sure bailed due to cold supposedly and we practically finished the route before any one else got through the pitch after the traverse. I avoided front range CO all these years for a reason. Tons of folks back there, most into socializing than actually getting after it climbing wise. Amazing difference compared to Canada or the Eastern Sierras. Just too close to a major city I guess. The climbing on this route, for the grade was exceptional. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches for a full 200' lead. The traverse catches your attention for sure, but it was relatively safe for the grade in alpine as well. The dihedral pitch was fantastic and for sure the best pitch of the day. The final vertical pitch was for sure the crux climbing. The squeeze was simple and easy but the climbing above it would work most, at the grade, by the time they got to it, calorie deprived and at that elevation. The final traverse was a fun finish, kind of a full pitch, I thought it was going to be shorter than that. The modern 5 double rope rap route was very well designed avoiding most any obstacle for the competent team. Good climb for sure.
Loved this climb! The enduro corner was fantastic. The squeeze chimney was quite fun (but I might be odd in my enjoyment of it). The traverses were easy, but I definitely wouldn't want to take a fall there.
Bad weather, great climb. The lightning and hail rattled me half way up the enduro pitch.
Did the Casual Route today, 13.5 hours ctc, with a top out on the summit. Great birthday.
One word to say. Haul your pack whenever you can. The enduro pitch seemed harder. Definately more sustained. The crux was about as strenoua as it gets with the squeeze chimney. topped out on the summit!
Awesome. First 5.9 pitch seemed less strenuous than the 5.8+ enduro pitch, traverse was easy, crux was cruxy at 14k feet.
Back in 2001, when I'd been climbing a few months, my partner and I decided to finally go for it before he was leaving town. We had never climbed 5.10, and I don't think I slept the night before at our little bivy at Chasm View (we rapped to Broadway, to save time). But the route is fantastic and I've since been back to the Diamond a few times, though I still get a feeling of awe whenever I approach the face.