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5.9, 1300m FA Philip Stone & Sarah Homer, August 6-7 1988
The longest route on the mountain starts up easy gullies and ramps on the far left side of the face. The first half of the routes in mediocre at best but the top half definitely makes up for it. Scramble up mostly 3rd – 5th class mossy gullies and ramps on the lower of the 2 parallel gullies until above the deep chasm into Cataract falls (alt. 5050ft). Make and exciting 55+ m free hanging rappel down to the stream. The rappel anchor is on detached block which can be reaching by down climbing about 7m then traversing around to the climber left onto a small exposed ledge. Great water pit stop. Now for some of the best climbing on The Colonel. Climb a few steep pitches (5.7) out from the stream to the amazing Arête. Climb beautiful arête for 1700ft to the upper glacier (low 5th -5.6). Ascend easy glacier to notch between the Gendarme and SW summit. Climb the steep loose ridge crest up to. Rappelling the snow band route is not recommended.
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