Partner: Steve Reynolds
5 pitches of incredible granite -- knobs, flakes, cracks & chimney. Resembles Serpentine Arete on Dragontail Peak (Cascades, WA state). Perfect weather. This remains one of my favorite all-time climbs.
My second time up this route. We spent much of the day hoping that lightning wouldn’t zap us. Lotsa’ fun!
This is a great peak. The SE buttress is a great route.
Hope to climb this peak as many times as possible.
After a late arrival Fri night, Kevin and I crashed in the woods (by the creek) S of Tuolumne Meadows, on the other side of 120.
After awaking, packing our stuff up & getting our gear together, we got a somewhat post-alpine start of 08.45. To make up for this, Kevin, consuming massive amounts of water to stay hydrated, adopted a blazing, speed-walking approach gait (I later learned that this was the norm for him). Hoping for a more laid-back approach, I struggled to keep up. We reached the base of the climb at 09.50.
There only being one party ahead of us at the start, we roped up quickly and got going. We alternated leads and made good progress. Climbing conditions were close to perfect (beautiful clear sky, warm temps, awesome views and rock), and got to the summit at noon.
After lingering on the summit for about 20 min, we took the 4th class descent. Soaking my feet in the stream for awhile, I got back to the car approximately 14.45 (obviously after Kevin). After stopping by the store, we drove the other way went on to climb Phobos & Deimos, both 5.9s, across the street from Fairview Dome (also both good climbs). Beautiful peak and surroundings, and so far, one of my favorite summit climbs.
26 August, '7
Took Julius from Munich (met at campsite next to ours the night before w/ no partner, so invited him) up this gem. Great climb & think he enjoyed it quite a bit too. Think I placed all of about 5 pieces throughout whole climb. Ominous clouds & thunder fortunately stayed away from us, towards Matthes Crest & on to Lyell. Only saw one other party on way up. Besides the extremely hot blonde soloist that passed us on the 2nd-to-last pitch. In retrospect, I should have offered her a belay (or something). Great day.
Approach took about 1:15. Finally soloed the SE buttress- besides getting stuck behind a party at the start, a great climb! Perfect rock, incredible views, & sweet climbing made up for it all. While the monster ledges between steep sections ease the psychological difficulty considerably, there is definitely exposure on this one! Route finding, & figuring out a way to safely pass said party in first half of route took up some time, but still summited in 1:25. Had hoped to do the rest of the Cathedral traverse after the peak, but just didn't have enough time (needed to be back to the TH at 16.30, & only started a little before 11.00). Oh well- a good excuse to come back here again! A most excellent day!
Finally took Faith up (her first time). She did a great job leading P's 1 & 5. Considering it was a Monday, amazing how many (fast, competent) parties there were on the route- 1 ahead of us at the start, & at least 4 behind us. Far more crowded than I'd hoped! Well, the rock-climb itself was as delightful as ever. Glad the weather worked out.
Finally fulfilled my dream of many years to do Cathedral as a winter ascent, w/ help from Rob. In retrospect, why I deemed this objective so important was quite possibly overrated. Even with heavily consolidated snow, the approach was highly fatigue-inducing. Must admit that the summit was quite rewarding, though. Quite possibly the only weekend (3 days!) I've been in Yosemite NP & not seen another person (aside from climbing partner)! Snow covered meadows, peaks, & domes was amazingly serene, & skiing back to the chalet under an almost-full moon after summiting surreal. Backcountry skiing through the trees (until we ended up in Budd Cr.) was as good as I've ever experienced. Ski down from Tioga Pass on return was rewarding too. Oh yeah, the climbing was fun too. Thanks, Rob- another feather in the cap! 1.21.'11, from gate above LV: started at 11.21, arriving at ski hut @ 21.36; 1.22: left hut @ 9.53, started climb @ 13.55, finished climb at/after sunset, done rapping route, at base again @ ~20.45, at slope below steep slope 21.05, back at hut @ 23.36; 1.23: left hut @ 9.51, at Tioga Pass 16.41, back at gate 19.15
I went up this route with my friends Trina and Mark. What a great day and a beautiful mountain!
My first trip to Tuolumne.
My (now ex.) wife Evelyn and I climbed the beautiful SE Buttress in 1983, while on Labor Day trip in Tuolumne. It was the first multipitch climb for her. I will never forget this day.
It's nice to be the only party on a Yosemite peak (Oct. '99)....
It's nice to be the first party on top of a Yosemite peak, but it sucks to be in front of 8 other parties(May '01)
How novel......I'm back! Woke up to a balmy 27 F in Tuolumne but it turned out to be a beautiful sunny day (daytime high 67 F)! Gotta bash the idiot who BURIED a .75 Camelot Jr. above the chimney........Gee, afraid to take a nose dive off a 5.5 move?!?!? Funny....I've recovered more gear from Cathedral than any other peak. Hmmmm......Finders, keepers!
This is one of my favorite climbs in Tuolumne. It was a sunny day with a very chilly wind and I found my teeth chattering while belaying. The route was a straight forward, I believe, 5.7 with plenty to grab onto. And did I mention, there were no other climbers in sight?!
Climbed with Dave Daly. Fun climb with a good partner. Who could ask for more? It was crowded below us but didn't bother us much.
My 33rd and fastest climb on the Southeast Buttress: 1:44:07, car to car. What a blast!
Back again! Climbed with Mark McConnell.....hot day! Doesn't help wearing black lightweight Capilene and a black ballcap!
Nothing like great partners, firm rock and the warm sun! Soloed with Michael and Bob.
Free Solo (Trio?) climb with Bob Burd and Dave Daly. I'd climbed it once before, roped up, with Monty.
Soloed with Michael and Dave. No flailing this time - I guess I learned something after the two previous times this summer. 2hr from TH to summit. Trip Report
The SE Buttress being too crowded, I climbed the South face route with a friend. Short and easy.
Nice hike with Sven Feldmann - on a Friday afternoon, we met only one other party that had just ascended the Southeast Buttress. We hiked in via Budd Creek, and out via the JMT. The latter is definitely longer, but the sunset over Fairview Dome was worth the slight detour.
This is a magnificent climb, but I will never again do it on the weekend. By the time we got to the chimney pitch, there were a half dozen teams above and below. Once I finally was able to climb through the chimney there were four belay stations set up above it. The climb took three times longer then it should have, although there were many interesting people to talk to. Snwburd and another guy solod the route.
2002 Sierra Mountaineers Challenge
this is a great climb. the only peak I will climb over and over again.