rpc - Jun 29, 2006 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2006
Few lines
Braille Book. An OK route - like steep cobblestone road. Don't think there was much crack climbing on it.
Climbed a few lines on MCR over extended Memorial Day Wknd. Central Pillar Of Frenzy. BEAUTIFUL line and gorgeous climbing! East Butt of MCR. Very nice. Classic indeed. Sustained at 5.7-5.8. Aided Harding ladder. Kor-Beck (1st 6 pitches). Last dihedral pitch was hard. Hung on it couple times. Rest of route is nice - not stellar but nice.
Route Climbed: Reg route on Higher Cathedral Spire & Central Pillar of Frenzy. Date Climbed: May 2001
Climbed Higher with my great partner Thad. We did the off route variation that take the crack stright up from the tree at the top of the first pitch. Had some of the nicest moves I have ever done on lead. An overhanging, stemming, flake problem. Took my first fall of my climbing career on the next pitch trying to free another off route pitch to the right of the chimeny. Love this climb.
Central pillar was good to. Some hard bits/pitchs on this climb.
N. Butress of MCR over 2 days, Regular routes on both Higher and Lower Spires (desend Spires Gully) E. Butress of MCR (descend Catwalk), and the Overhang Bypass route on LCR (descend Gunsight).
Route Climbed: East Butress, middle cathedral Date Climbed: Late 80's
Excellent Route! Loved the cracks. Almost had it to ourselves, and we thought we were moving well until we got passed near the top by two Italians in jumpsuits who flew by like we were standing still... made me wish I knew how to climb.
Route Climbed: NW Buttress of MCR Date Climbed: Apr 16, 2005
Toured the Cathedral Rocks with Matthew, hitting the summits of Lower, Middle, and Higher Cathedral Rocks, up via Gunsight and the NW Buttress of Middle, then down Spires Gully. Trip Report
Route Climbed: Central Pillar of Frenzy Date Climbed: August 2003
Sort of a summit I supposed. We finished the climb. We climbed the first five pitches, which is the normal route now. I think originally the route went further but the climbing on the first five pitches is the best. Absolutely great climb.
Route Climbed: Reg. Rt. Higher Spire, Reg. Rt. Lower Spire, E. Butt. Mid. Cath. Date Climbed: July 1987
Climbed Reg. Rt. on higher spire 2x in one week. Fun Rt. with group of friends-social climbing! Climbed East Buttress of Middle Cath. Rock 7/87 with Hugh Sakols; Climbed Reg. Rt. on Lower Spire with Bill Nolan 10/93.
Hiked up to the top of the Gunsight to access the summit of Lower Cathedral. Daytime temp was 38. Windchill factor and no sun in the Gunsight made it considerably less. Very little ice encountered. Had a great day with a great friend.
Route Climbed: NW Face of Middle Cathedral (III, 5.7). Date Climbed: 2 Nov 2002
Located this ancient Steve Roper route just past the top of the Gunsight, immediately to the left. Bob Burd, Michele Beaty and myself sought out where the "mystery arrrow" pointed to, as illustrated in the Don Reid guide. At the time, we were not sure of where the first pitch began so we forged out own variation. Our first pitch, 'The Mooch Traverse' (5.7), wandered 200 feet right from the original 1st pitch start and up to a pine tree (a FULL 60 meters!!). There, we found super ancient slings. The rest was fairly obvious. Not a bad route. Good rock quality and an outstanding view of Leaning Tower! In an earlier summit log post by Bob Burd, he mentioned we did the NW Buttress. Again, we actually did the NW Face. The NW Buttress is about 300 yards to the right of this route and is rated 5.6. For those that like obscurity, I highly recommend the NW Face.
Route Climbed: DNB of Middle Cathedral, Gunsight. Date Climbed: summer 1995
Gunsight: Took a bunch of kids up for a day of adventure and a little rope work. Got to the top of the Gunsight, but not any real summits. Still, the kids got a good thrashing, and so it was fun for them.
DNB: The Cathedrals are perfect for free climbing. Any steeper, and it would be aid, less steep, and it would be too easy. Well, maybe. To climb in Yosemite and only do short routes is horrible. With only one day off a week from work, this had been my diet. Finally, I had a few free days between one job and the next, so a friend and I decided to try the DNB because it was in the shade most of the day, and it didn't seem too hard for our modest ability. We didn't ask around from other climbers, just looked at the guidebook topo, and decided it looked good. Besides, if Charlie Fowler had free soloed it, how hard could it be?
The crux was a non-issue, a little French free action, and we moved on. Then came the wandering face climbing, with stout run-outs. There was chalk and fixed gear all over the place, with no clear or safe way to continue that was readily apparant. In shame and disgust we rappelled off.
It turns out that DNB doesn't mean Direct North Buttress. Instead, it means Do Not Bother. So, this summer, we plan to free Astroman on Washington Column. It isn't as many pitches, and hey, Peter Croft AND Dean Potter have free soloed it, so.... how hard can it be?
Route Climbed: several Date Climbed: August 1996, September 2000
Great area !
Climbed the East Buttress and the Kor-Beck route of the MCR together with my wife during my first visit of the Yosemite with a torn ligament. I harmed myself at a ground fall at the "Supercrack of the desert", ehem .... this was a piece of luck ! Climbing was ok but hiking was aching.
I've done the Braille book at the HCR in Sept. 2000 as the second climb (after the Nutcracker) for accustom myself to the Yosemite granite together with my friend Jörg Dufner. We also had an attempt at the NE-buttress of the HCR.
Route Climbed: NW Face of MCR Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2002
This was a fine adventure with Dave and Michele, an all day scramble/climb, first up Gunsight, then a roped climb of Middle Cathedral's NW Face followed by a scramble to the summit of Higher Cathedral Rock, and finally a descent of Cathedral Gully. It was definitely one of my most enjoyable climbing days. Trip Report
rpc - Jun 29, 2006 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2006
Few linesBraille Book. An OK route - like steep cobblestone road. Don't think there was much crack climbing on it.
Climbed a few lines on MCR over extended Memorial Day Wknd.
Central Pillar Of Frenzy. BEAUTIFUL line and gorgeous climbing!
East Butt of MCR. Very nice. Classic indeed. Sustained at 5.7-5.8. Aided Harding ladder.
Kor-Beck (1st 6 pitches). Last dihedral pitch was hard. Hung on it couple times. Rest of route is nice - not stellar but nice.
Rileywyna - Dec 19, 2005 7:51 am
Route Climbed: Reg route on Higher Cathedral Spire & Central Pillar of Frenzy. Date Climbed: May 2001Climbed Higher with my great partner Thad. We did the off route variation that take the crack stright up from the tree at the top of the first pitch. Had some of the nicest moves I have ever done on lead. An overhanging, stemming, flake problem. Took my first fall of my climbing career on the next pitch trying to free another off route pitch to the right of the chimeny. Love this climb.
Central pillar was good to. Some hard bits/pitchs on this climb.
tdoughty - Oct 16, 2005 12:28 pm
Route Climbed: ManyN. Butress of MCR over 2 days, Regular routes on both Higher and Lower Spires (desend Spires Gully) E. Butress of MCR (descend Catwalk), and the Overhang Bypass route on LCR (descend Gunsight).
salad - Aug 11, 2005 3:49 pm
Route Climbed: East Butt Date Climbed: 1997ishGreat climb, badly dehydrated as my hydration system leaked out belaying on pitch 2. did the 10a fifty crowded variation.
Brian Frederick - May 17, 2005 1:01 am
Route Climbed: East Butress, middle cathedral Date Climbed: Late 80'sExcellent Route! Loved the cracks. Almost had it to ourselves, and we thought we were moving well until we got passed near the top by two Italians in jumpsuits who flew by like we were standing still... made me wish I knew how to climb.
Bob Burd - May 1, 2005 1:11 pm
Route Climbed: NW Buttress of MCR Date Climbed: Apr 16, 2005Toured the Cathedral Rocks with Matthew, hitting the summits of Lower, Middle, and Higher Cathedral Rocks, up via Gunsight and the NW Buttress of Middle, then down Spires Gully. Trip Report
stoneman5 - Sep 13, 2004 7:35 pm
Route Climbed: Central Pillar of Frenzy Date Climbed: May, 1998First five only. Great climbing
stoneman5 - Sep 13, 2004 7:34 pm
Route Climbed: East Buttress of Middle Date Climbed: June 1996Wonderful climb. Noone else on the route.
mekwise - Sep 6, 2004 11:56 am
Route Climbed: Central Pillar of Frenzy Date Climbed: August 2003Sort of a summit I supposed. We finished the climb. We climbed the first five pitches, which is the normal route now. I think originally the route went further but the climbing on the first five pitches is the best. Absolutely great climb.
Dave Dinnell - Jan 10, 2004 12:06 am
Route Climbed: Reg. Rt. Higher Spire, Reg. Rt. Lower Spire, E. Butt. Mid. Cath. Date Climbed: July 1987Climbed Reg. Rt. on higher spire 2x in one week. Fun Rt. with group of friends-social climbing! Climbed East Buttress of Middle Cath. Rock 7/87 with Hugh Sakols; Climbed Reg. Rt. on Lower Spire with Bill Nolan 10/93.
Dave Daly - Nov 23, 2003 11:10 pm
Route Climbed: Gunsight Date Climbed: 22 Nov 2003Hiked up to the top of the Gunsight to access the summit of Lower Cathedral. Daytime temp was 38. Windchill factor and no sun in the Gunsight made it considerably less. Very little ice encountered. Had a great day with a great friend.
Dave Daly - Oct 31, 2003 2:18 am
Route Climbed: NW Face of Middle Cathedral (III, 5.7). Date Climbed: 2 Nov 2002Located this ancient Steve Roper route just past the top of the Gunsight, immediately to the left. Bob Burd, Michele Beaty and myself sought out where the "mystery arrrow" pointed to, as illustrated in the Don Reid guide. At the time, we were not sure of where the first pitch began so we forged out own variation. Our first pitch, 'The Mooch Traverse' (5.7), wandered 200 feet right from the original 1st pitch start and up to a pine tree (a FULL 60 meters!!). There, we found super ancient slings. The rest was fairly obvious. Not a bad route. Good rock quality and an outstanding view of Leaning Tower! In an earlier summit log post by Bob Burd, he mentioned we did the NW Buttress. Again, we actually did the NW Face. The NW Buttress is about 300 yards to the right of this route and is rated 5.6. For those that like obscurity, I highly recommend the NW Face.
darinchadwick - May 21, 2003 7:50 am
Route Climbed: DNB of Middle Cathedral, Gunsight. Date Climbed: summer 1995Gunsight: Took a bunch of kids up for a day of adventure and a little rope work. Got to the top of the Gunsight, but not any real summits. Still, the kids got a good thrashing, and so it was fun for them.
DNB: The Cathedrals are perfect for free climbing. Any steeper, and it would be aid, less steep, and it would be too easy. Well, maybe. To climb in Yosemite and only do short routes is horrible. With only one day off a week from work, this had been my diet. Finally, I had a few free days between one job and the next, so a friend and I decided to try the DNB because it was in the shade most of the day, and it didn't seem too hard for our modest ability. We didn't ask around from other climbers, just looked at the guidebook topo, and decided it looked good. Besides, if Charlie Fowler had free soloed it, how hard could it be?
The crux was a non-issue, a little French free action, and we moved on. Then came the wandering face climbing, with stout run-outs. There was chalk and fixed gear all over the place, with no clear or safe way to continue that was readily apparant. In shame and disgust we rappelled off.
It turns out that DNB doesn't mean Direct North Buttress. Instead, it means Do Not Bother. So, this summer, we plan to free Astroman on Washington Column. It isn't as many pitches, and hey, Peter Croft AND Dean Potter have free soloed it, so.... how hard can it be?
kletterwebbi - May 18, 2003 10:24 pm
Route Climbed: several Date Climbed: August 1996, September 2000Great area !
Climbed the East Buttress and the Kor-Beck route of the MCR together with my wife during my first visit of the Yosemite with a torn ligament. I harmed myself at a ground fall at the "Supercrack of the desert", ehem .... this was a piece of luck ! Climbing was ok but hiking was aching.
I've done the Braille book at the HCR in Sept. 2000 as the second climb (after the Nutcracker) for accustom myself to the Yosemite granite together with my friend Jörg Dufner. We also had an attempt at the NE-buttress of the HCR.
Bob Burd - May 17, 2003 9:36 pm
Route Climbed: NW Face of MCR Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2002This was a fine adventure with Dave and Michele, an all day scramble/climb, first up Gunsight, then a roped climb of Middle Cathedral's NW Face followed by a scramble to the summit of Higher Cathedral Rock, and finally a descent of Cathedral Gully. It was definitely one of my most enjoyable climbing days. Trip Report