Approach
Catinaccio/Rosengartenspitze
For this route, I recommend to sleep somewhere in Catinaccio (cca 1900 m). From the parking place above Val di Fassa we were carrying a tent and sleeping bags, so we could start early.
Route Description
On the way to Passo Scalette | Catinaccio - Passo Scalette
You start the tour either at Rif. Gardeccioa, 1949 m, or on the road below it, in the lower Valle del Vajolet, on cca 1800 m. From the hut the marked route No. 583 ascends towards east. Through pine bushes and over debris you soon arrive vertical walls, continue comfortably around them by a ledge, only slightly gaining altitude. Then the route turns northwards and starts to climb over a 300 m high slope to Passo Scalette. In a few places this path requires some care. |
On Passo Scalette | Passo Scalette - Passo Lausa
Passo Scalette, 2348 m, is a southern door into the wonderful land of Larsec. Flat green meadows, rock towers, lively creeks and loneliness. The marked route ascends persistently towards the north, over a few steps of Valle di Lausa, until you reach Passo Lausa, 2720 m. |
East face | Passo Lausa - Kesselkogel E Face Entry
Now you must lose some heigth. You'll probably not go down to Lake Antermoia, where the marked route goes, although the beauty of that place is always worth visiting. It depends on how much snow there lies on slopes, how directly towards the left (NW direction) you'll go. In any case down in Antermoia Valley you'll hit the marked route No. 584. Follow it towards the west, you can't miss a huge pyramid of Catinaccio d'Antermoia / Kesselkogel. (See the picture left!) |
| East Face Route
When you reach the mountain, leave the route No. 584 on your left side (it goes over the Antermoia pass), and follow the marked path directly towards Catinaccio d'Antermoia / Kesselkogel. You'll see also many trails. Orientation problems end when you finally reach vertical rocks on the right bottom side of the wall. Now you just follow steel cables, they will lead you on a quite comfortable ledge, but still be prepared to climb on a few places. Nor this ascent nor the west descent (or vice versa) is appropriate for people, who suffer from heigth dizziness. Just below the top, climbing becomes a bit more comfortable and you soon reach the top. I'd wish you have as clear panorama as we did! |
Dolomites view | West Face Route Descent
On descent, you first follow marks by a short northern ridge, then the route descends to a narrow ledge, crossing towards left again. This pattern continues. From left to right and back, always by ledges. Take care of falling stones! When you already think you have reached the Grassleitenpass, the ledge still leads you around the corner of a vertical pillar and only after it the route descends on the saddle. |
| Return to Catinaccio
From the pass, you now only have to follow a broad, marked route through the beautiful Vajolet Valley towards the south. On the place, where you close the circle, you will probably go in bushes to take the tent and other equipment (if you were not sleeping in the hut). After that, you need to walk down one more hour to the parking place. |
For the whole circle you'll need around 7 hours (4 to climb up, 3 to get down). Add to those one more hour to descend to the car.
Essential Gear
On the narrow ledges, just above Grassleitenpass
For rock climbing the usual equipment for via ferratta (a helmet mandatory).