Cave Dweller, 5.10

3rd Pitch- 35m- 5.10/ This is the crux pitch of the route. Although Bryan called for double to 6” in his guidebook, I took a single C4 #4, #5 and #6 and these three pieces were all I placed on this 35m crux pitch along with the one fixed piece of pro (the only pro bolt on the entire route). I walked the #5 one time, otherwise I felt well protected. Head up the run out, but relatively easy, black chimney on good rock passing one bolt on the right about half way to the wide roof above. Protect the roof with a large piece and make dramatic moves (crux) back out to the outer edge mantling up into the wide crack above. Continue whilst placing your other large pieces until the pitch eases at a fixed rap station. Continue past the rap station up a short corner and then short chimney via easy cracks (for the grade) to a sandy ledge. C4 #3 and #2 gear fits in the left crack above for the belay.
Cave Dweller, 5.10, 4 Pitches, Kung Fu Theater Wall, Zion National Park, May, 2012


No comments posted yet.