Cave Route

Page Type
Route
Location:
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
5.6
Rock Difficulty:
5.6 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
4
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 6 Votes

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Page By:
rpc
Cave Route
Created On: Mar 9, 2003
Last Edited On: Jul 9, 2008

Approach

Pitch 3 of  the Cave RouteSummit
Cave RouteLower 3 Pitches

Follow the directions on the main page to get to Brogan Spire. This interesting route (a 4-star route according to A. Watts' guide book) is located on the side of Brogan Spire opposite to where Burma Road is. From the hairpin turn on Burma Road, traverse across the slope (cross-country) toward Brogan/Opposum/Tail complex aiming for for a "pass" uphill of these crags. As you go over this pass, follow the base of the crag as you start descending down the other side. Shortly you will see a rock "amphitheater" on your right. Directly above you should clearly see a tunnel (about 50 feet above the ground) through which the Cave Route passes (on 2nd pitch). Enter the amphitheater and find a line of two bolts (pitch one of the route) just below and to the left of the tunnel above. Many more bolted lines exist immediately left of this one.

Route Description

Looking throught the cave...The Namesake Cavity
John leading the...
Pitch 2 of the Cave RouteStart
The first pitch...P1

The route as described in A. Watt's guide book has an "X" rating. This no longer applies as the first pitch has been retro bolted.

Pitch 1: 5.6. Climb the rock face past two bolts for about 40 feet to a doubly bolted belay anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.3. Walk through the tunnel (clipping a single bolt in the mouth of the tunnel) and turn right and uphill immediately out of the tunnel. There's opportunity here to put in some large gear (a #3.5 Camalot worked well). Climb up following the wall on your right hand side. You will pass a doubly bolted anchor about half way to the summit ridge. If rope drag is a problem, belay here. If not, continue climbing toward the summit ridge and another double bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.4. Once you top out on pitch two, you're on the summit ridge. The summit of Brogan is the formation to your left. Walk the summit ridge toward the summit spire (an exposed walk - best to belay). Clip a bolt at its base and move left and up. Mid-sized cams can be placed inside of fist-sized pockets here (a #3 Camalot worked well). The summit has several (two at least) double bolt rap anchors to belay from.

Descent: Rappel the route. Single 60m rope is sufficient.

Essential Gear

Rapping off from the summit...

A small set of QD's as well as a few long slings to minimize the rope drag on this meandering route. A few mid- to large-sized cams (used the #3 and #3.5 Camalots).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.






Cave Route

Route
23 Images 9 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Routes in Oregon

Parents

Smith: The MarsupialsRoutes