Possibly first foreign ascent of this route? Full trip report here:
Normal Route via Hermoso Glacier
Guided trip with RMI Guides. Had a solid climb, good pace and we crushed it. About 9 hours round trip from the hut.
Perfect weather, suuuper conditions of snow and glacier, a wonderful ascent.
perfect start of 2016. one of the crevasses was quite open, a bit to climb, all the rest smooth. great weather.
Climbed Cayambe after Cotopaxi erupted, changing my plans. Acclimatized on Rucu Pichinicha and Iliniza Norte prior to summit attempt on Cayambe. Weather was cloudy, very windy. Gusts were knocking us over. Summit visibility was virtually zero, but after descending for an hour or so, there were magnificent views, with clouds flowing over the mountain behind us. Overall a fantastic climb. Hut is very luxurious compared to most.
Started at 11:30 pm. 7 hours to the Summit. Beautiful view but very cold.
Thanks to Marco our guide our wind-buffeted tiny group attained the frigid iced summit at sunrise. Clear views in all directions were difficult to appreciate because of the windchill but we did our best before quickly heading down. Do not underestimate this mountain is my humble advice to all seeking its summit.
Crystal clear skies with views all the way to quito for the ascent. Upon beginning descent turned more or less into a white out until around 5200 meters.
Started at the Refugio around 2300 after rain finally stops. Nice mixed climb with a short rock ridge to get over right off the bat. good tike to practice some "Freedom of the Hills" techniques....in boot. after that its a long slog filled with many hidden crevasses (long rope here for sure) to about 100m from the top when it turns to about a 50deg slope depending on the snow might require some ax swinging to assist at that late stage. Weather was great during the night with clear visibility of the cities of Ibarra, Cayambe, and Quito far below. Day break brought in clouds at altitude followed by wind driven sleet at the summit @ 0740 driving a a quick group picture and a careful quick retreat. Fun looooong Climb.
Fun times, wish the weather would have been better. Visability went to 30' and we aborted
Started hiking from refuge at 2300. I was sick from the altitude and threw up a few times on the way up. It was very steep near the top and we had to climb on all fours. Awesome weather and awesome views. We could see for miles and all of the major volcanoes were in view.
Left the refuge at 1:00 a.m. and reached the summit at 6:00 a.m. Perfect snow conditions, clear skies, and low winds made Cayambe very enjoyable. The climbing was fairly sustained and more rigorous than Cotopaxi a few days later. The main obstacles were several crevasse crossings along the lower glacier and a steep crux pitch below the summit. Greeted with an absolutely surreal, alien sunrise on the summit. The sun rose behind a distant thunderstorm, lightning and all, bathing the surrounding mountains in purple light. Climbed with Ecuadorian guide Pato.
It seems like all of Ecuador decided to climb Cayambe this weekend; the refugio was full to bursting with at least three large teams of about 16 people. Weather was perfect: full moon, no clouds, no wind, and rather warm. We left at 1am after the big rush (everyone else started at midnight), passed a few teams who later turned back, and the entire journey without headlamps due to the bright moon. We fell through the show crust around Picos Jarrin but otherwise had great snow conditions. We summited at 7 just as everyone else was descending, spectacular views of Antisana and Cotopaxi, and had time to go to the Cumbre Oriental before heading down. Descent was trickier because some of the snowpack started melting, with some weaker snow bridges over the crevasses and somewhat slushy conditions, but we made it down well enough.
Second summit, route was a little different this year. Three big crevasses low on the glacier and steeper up top.
Cloudless night and not much wind. Perfect conditions. Reached the top with Simon West and our guide Eddison shortly after sunrise. Not a cloud around and the most amazing view of 10+ volcanoes.
Paid $23 a night at the refuge. We had fairly good weather, but it had been snowing for several days before we got there. Starting from the glacier we were walking in fog. We got about 2/3 of the way up, where it starts to get steep and our guide said we were going to cause an avalanche if we kept going, so we turned back. I've been with this guide to the summit of 3 other high peaks so I trust his opinion and didn't think he was just being lazy. The wind was also picking up and blowing around the fresh snow, making visibility pretty low. Maybe some other time.
Stuck in the hut for 3 days due to heavy rain and very strong winds. Soaked in less then 5 minutes.
Was up in the refuge for three nights... much too long for good rest. I had a guided climb the second night but just up to La ventana in the rocks, we found ourselves in too much static, plus the pressue was dropping pretty quickly. Visibility was horrible in the rocks from heavy fog and descending in the wetness wasn´t too fun. I was pretty sad from seeing the mountain experience a perfect last week. Then the guide that also happened to be in the refuge offered to take me up so long as his client was ok with it. So suddenly had another chance... waited all day as the mountain stayed socked in, feeling doubtful and wondering if it was worth spending another miserable night at the hut. 1 a.m. was gorgeous though - almost totally clear but still warmish. Sleepless nights got to me and I did slow down my teammates who obviously were much stronger, but their love of sharing the mountains and generousity was profound as was their patience. It wasn´t a super slow morning but we got to the top at about 8 a.m. Apparently the route accessing the top changed about a month ago and now the best way is zigzagging up a ramp of steep snow (protection good) around huge, shockingly beautiful ice walls. Got a windy summit but saw Reventador erupting, plus Tungurahua erupting far off in the distance. Chimborazo, Antisana, Cotopaxi, Sumaco, Illinizas, El Corazon, Imbabura, Cotacachi... all poking above scattered clouds. Encountered only a few crevasses all deep but with narrow crossings. Nice snow. Felt not fantastic coming down.