Cayambe Climber's Log

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marauders - Jan 23, 2007 6:07 pm Date Climbed: Jan 12, 2007

Climbed Normal Route: Jan 12, 2007  Sucess!

The mountain was in perfect condition. We left at midnight and summited in 7 hours under a blanket of stars. During the last 30 minutes the sun rose and the winds kicked up to 40mph with moist clouds that covered us in a sheet of ice.

We crossed over 8 cravesses but they were very narrow and safe to cross. The bergschrund at the top also had a large, secure snow bridge that made for very easy crossing. I can't imagine this mountain could have been in much better conditions. We were fortunate!

We didn't have a guide, so the clear night was mandatory for safe route finding. There is no boot track on Cayambe so good route finding or a guide is necessary. The hut is easily the best in Ecuador. It seems like a small resort compared to the others.

moneal

moneal - Jan 21, 2007 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2007

Normal route

Got blown off the mountain by high winds (40-50 mph sustained with higher gusts). Turned around shortly after the glacier started. Too bad cause I felt great

tjbst47

tjbst47 - Jan 16, 2007 12:08 am Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2007

normal route  Sucess!

Hired a guide (The Explorer, Riena Victoria, Mariscal) after my partner left. Nice guy, but I question his techniques. Tried to short rope me (3 m) which I didnt allow, and he didnt carry any pro and anchor building materials. Anyhow, he knew the route well and there is no path in the snow like Coto and Chimbo. Easy summit after climbing Chimbo. 5.5 hours from the hut. The real story is how the brakes when out on the jeep on the way down the mountain. Rolled the jeep onto the roof. Scary, but fortunately no one was hurt.

LC

LC - Jan 11, 2007 5:12 am Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2006

Weird weather  Sucess!

Started out at midnight after a very long and sleepless night. Perfect snow conditions on the ascent. Reached the summit around 9am. Beautiful view. The descent was pretty horrible. It must have been 95 degrees and it was snowing! Snow was very soft on the descent.

BalletBoy

BalletBoy - Nov 5, 2006 8:57 pm Date Climbed: Oct 25, 2006

Ruta Normal - Oct. 25th, 2006  Sucess!

A beautiful starry night guided myself and Woodie Hopper to the Summit of this beautiful mountain for the first of our "Big Three" climbs in Ecuador. The windy summit made it cold but otherwise a perfect day with impressive views. The refugio is the nicest in all of Ecuador. Don't miss out on climbing this mountain!

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Oct 25, 2006 7:49 pm Date Climbed: Oct 25, 2006

Ruta Normal  Sucess!

Climbed with Nord Sandstrom. We had beautiful weather and snow conditions, but a lot of wind near and on the top. We had stunning views of Antisana, Cotopaxi, the Ilinizas and Chimborazo. We even watched El Reventador erupt briefly while on the summit- awesome!

peakrat76

peakrat76 - Aug 14, 2006 10:33 pm Date Climbed: Nov 14, 1991

Ruta Normal  Sucess!

A big, dangerous mountain with plenty of crevasses and objective danger. No crowds here in 91. A much more interesting and wild mountain than Cotopaxi. Summit reached in fog. (Our van almost slid off of the steep approach road below the hut on our departure in a wild rain storm!) The first peak on a memorable expedition.

n8jojohnson

n8jojohnson - Jul 30, 2006 3:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2006

Whited Out

Started out with a beautiful, calm, crystal-clear night. Arrived at the toe of the glacier and discovered that half of our gear we cached had been jacked. Half the group turned around while 3 of us made our bid. A storm rolled in and before we knew it, we were in complete white-out. Reached the Bergshrund and hunkered down until day-break to see if the storm would give; unfortunately, we had to call 18,500' our high point.

carolina.altamirano

carolina.altamirano - Mar 7, 2006 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2005

Normal  Sucess!

It was a great climb because all the crevasses were covered by compacted snow. We started climbing at 2.00 am from a campament right in front of the refuge, we reached the summit ar 7.00 am. The descent was fine too.

Liga

Liga - Feb 27, 2006 3:43 pm Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2006

Normal Route  Sucess!

Nice snow climb. We had a little too much smell of sulphur last few hundred meters below the summit. I was not sure whether to blame poor acclimatization or sulphur for my headache :) Views from the summit where amazing - Antisana, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo...

emilie

emilie - Feb 23, 2006 3:21 pm Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2006

Normal Route

We were climbing by moonlight and it was freaking cold but beautiful. I wasn't feeling acclimatized though so I turned around quite early, 16,600ft, to save my energy for Cotopaxi.

Uwe Kraus

Uwe Kraus - Dec 27, 2005 7:59 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 10th of January 1999  Sucess!

1999 I visited Ecuador for the second time. Our intention was to climb Cayambe and Chimorazo. After we had climbed several mountains to acclimatise (among others Illiniza Norte and Imbabura) we started to climb Volcán Cayambe. Therefore we had hired a guide in Quito.



In my opinion Volcán Cayambe is one of the most beautiful mountains in Ecuador. It is a challenging climb in wonderful glacial scenery. However, the weather is mostly unpredictable there and one has to have much luck to summit. As we were told afterwards 13 groups of climbers tried to climb Volcán Cayambe before us that year and couldn’t summit because of bad weather. We were the first group in that season reaching the summit.



We reached the summit on 10th of January 1999.











The entire report and more information as well as pictures you will find at http://members.aol.com/UweKraus3/site18_e.htm



climberben

climberben - Dec 26, 2005 4:52 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 4 November 2000  Sucess!

We had clear weather and awesome snow coverage not very many crevasses to deal with! Left at midnight and were back at the refugio by 8am!

YetiBauer

YetiBauer - Dec 8, 2005 9:42 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Feburary 2005

Storm Off at 18,000 ft! The hut was really sweet, I kept flushing the toilet to see which way the water would swirl since we were on the equator.

amcfarre

amcfarre - Feb 14, 2005 11:18 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Jan 24, 2005  Sucess!

Due to low visability from clouds we wandered too far left from the regular route and found ourselves at the base of a steep ice climb. With sunrise and clearing weather we backtracked and found the normal route and the intact snow bridge. Made the summit later than we'd planned and baked on the sunny glacier on our descent.



Photos and Trip Report

igor cazes - Jul 15, 2004 8:58 pm

Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: january, 15 1998

We just stopped a few meters below the summit due the infamous crevase which round cayambe's summit.

it was wide open and very dangerous to pass.

Great climb.Big, high and crevassed.

Engendradodelayuca

Engendradodelayuca - Apr 19, 2004 7:36 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Julio 2001

Tuvimos que volver por el clima, mucho viento.

Miguel Angel Perez

Miguel Angel Perez - Feb 14, 2004 9:12 am

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Dec. 24, 2003

Started at 12:00 am from the Hut with a lot of strong winds. Glacier and snow conditions were not good. Lot of creveases dangerously hidden.



Turned arround at 6:00 am due to the terrible weather conditions and hypothermia of some partners.

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Jan 7, 2004 1:46 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 5, 2004  Sucess!

Left the hut in light snow and clouds, but luckily, things cleared up and we had very good conditions all the way to the summit. Since no one had been to the summit in a few weeks, there was no track, but routefinding was pretty straightforward thanks to a full moon. There were lots of hidden crevasses on the lower glacier (near Pico Jarrin) and we punched through several times. The upper glacier was heavily crevassed and required some routefinding. The last slopes below the summit were steep (50m of 55 degrees) and there was a HUGE crevasse just below the summit. I tried to climb through directly (20m of 90 degrees), but the ice was poor and the climbing awkward, so I backed down and we decided to traverse left to pass the crevasse/ice wall. After traversing about 100m on 55 degree slopes, we were able to climb past the crevasse (3m of 60 degrees) and on to the summit.

Jerry L

Jerry L - Mar 6, 2003 4:45 am

Date Climbed: February 21, 2003

My son and I woke up in the early morning with a terrible stomach virus. We immediately descended and headed straight for Otovalo where we laid in a hotel room for (36) hours, sick as could be.

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