Cayambe Climber's Log

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WDW4

WDW4 - Jan 9, 2012 9:57 am Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2012

Reached 5,600 meters

Left from the Refugio around midnight with a large group, started snowing around 4 am, made it to 5,600 around dawn before being turned back by a combo of low visibility and crevasses.

lutty11

lutty11 - Dec 28, 2011 10:47 pm Date Climbed: Nov 17, 2010

Normal Route  Sucess!

One of the best days climbing. Fresh/wet/sketchy snow early on, proved to become much more stable as we ascended. Could have used one more acclimation day!

karore - Oct 8, 2011 11:36 am Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2011

Normal Rute  Sucess!

Straight climb but it was cloudy so we didn't get to see much.

noahs213

noahs213 - Nov 7, 2010 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2010

Great  Sucess!

Straightforward. Final crevasse was not bad but everyone turned around even the American guides.

russmeehan

russmeehan - Aug 5, 2010 11:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2010

Normal Route  Sucess!

Camped below glacier (no fee). Left at 1:38 am. and made the top at 6:50 am. Had to zig zag through crevasses near top and set up a belay for a steep snow wall (about 1 to 2 body lengths of 90 degrees). A snow stake would be helpful and some wands since most groups turn around below the big crevasse.

Epica

Epica - Sep 22, 2009 12:32 am Date Climbed: Oct 27, 2008

One of the best days of my life!

Started out around midnight from the refuge, but the lack of acclimatization finally caught up with me and didn't make it to the top. I still loved being on that mountain and will be back one day, with much more time to enjoy!

Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Aug 18, 2009 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Jan 29, 2009

Thank goodness...  Sucess!

I was still getting over some pretty bad stomach problems, so it was nice that mother nature had a little pity for me and gave us great weather and snow conditions!

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Feb 2, 2009 5:19 pm Date Climbed: Jan 29, 2009

Awesome conditions  Sucess!

Clear/windless night made the summit push a breeze especially since we were well acclimated having climbed Chimborazo and Cotopaxi a few days before. Great view over a sea of cloud from the top.

Bill Kish

Bill Kish - Jan 26, 2009 10:46 am Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2009

Normal Route

Wet weather left a lot of new snow on the mountain. We turned around at 5100m due to unstable snow conditions.

0302Explorer

0302Explorer - Apr 24, 2008 10:57 pm Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2008

Normal Route

After a long, lousy winter here we got lucky and had good conditions under a full moon. With a lot of new snow, we were concerned about conditions. It was a bit soft at the base of the glacier but firmed up quickly and we had nearly perfect conditions. A narrow bridge over a crevasse near the summit presented the only real challenge beyond the altitude - smooth sailing to a frigid summit with fantastic views all the way to Chimborazo.
We spent the night at the plateau above the refuge. While we were concerned about leaving our tents and gear, we were alone on the mountain and back in time to beat the first day hikers up to the plateau.

kommish

kommish - Jan 31, 2008 6:46 pm Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Great views, was a wonderful sunrise.

Hotfeet

Hotfeet - Jan 21, 2008 8:44 pm Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2008

Standard route  Sucess!

A very long and worthwhiole climb. Beautiful mountain. Very windy.

lefty

lefty - Jan 16, 2008 1:16 am Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

This was a very enjoyable and relatively easy climb. The slope is much less steep than Cotopaxi, except near the top. It was a clear and windless night with nice snow conditons. We had to downclimb into the Bergshrund near the top and use two tools to climb back out of it on the way down. Some groups managed to get around it on the left side.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Sep 21, 2007 12:55 am Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2005

Route Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!

Edgar and I started climbing up at midnight from the refuge. Ice/snow conditions were good, even though we fell inside a couple of small snow covered cravasses at the base of the summit:-).

Summited few minutes after sunrise, The view was great.

Bill562

Bill562 - Jul 13, 2007 5:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007

Cayambe normal route  Sucess!

Climbed with Haliku and Axe. This climb was much easier than slogging up Coto in bad weather. Ironically, good weather on Cayambe is much more rare than on Coto. A good boot track was present most of the way. The crux was the 70 deg snow bridge across the bergshrund.

This climb made it five for five peaks in Ecuador for our team on this trip.

Haliku

Haliku - Jul 13, 2007 9:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007

Normal Route  Sucess!

What a beautiful day; blue sky and sunny with light winds for most of the climb! Axe, Bill562 and I climbed with Guide Freddy Ramirez of Sierra Nevada. There is still some snow on the road so we had to carry gear to the hut.

bolojm

bolojm - Jun 19, 2007 5:14 am Date Climbed: Feb 18, 2005

Summited via normal route  Sucess!

We fought through an ice storm on the way up...totally coated in ice, but we made it! The clouds cleared and the sun came out for the way down. Forgot to put sunscreen on the underside of my nose...ouch! It was a great day, not as much trouble at nearly 19,000' as I thought I would have. No Diamox, just Gingko, Cytomax, luck and determination even though I felt nauseous at 18,000'.

marauders

marauders - Jan 23, 2007 6:07 pm Date Climbed: Jan 12, 2007

Climbed Normal Route: Jan 12, 2007  Sucess!

The mountain was in perfect condition. We left at midnight and summited in 7 hours under a blanket of stars. During the last 30 minutes the sun rose and the winds kicked up to 40mph with moist clouds that covered us in a sheet of ice.

We crossed over 8 cravesses but they were very narrow and safe to cross. The bergschrund at the top also had a large, secure snow bridge that made for very easy crossing. I can't imagine this mountain could have been in much better conditions. We were fortunate!

We didn't have a guide, so the clear night was mandatory for safe route finding. There is no boot track on Cayambe so good route finding or a guide is necessary. The hut is easily the best in Ecuador. It seems like a small resort compared to the others.

moneal

moneal - Jan 21, 2007 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2007

Normal route

Got blown off the mountain by high winds (40-50 mph sustained with higher gusts). Turned around shortly after the glacier started. Too bad cause I felt great

tjbst47

tjbst47 - Jan 16, 2007 12:08 am Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2007

normal route  Sucess!

Hired a guide (The Explorer, Riena Victoria, Mariscal) after my partner left. Nice guy, but I question his techniques. Tried to short rope me (3 m) which I didnt allow, and he didnt carry any pro and anchor building materials. Anyhow, he knew the route well and there is no path in the snow like Coto and Chimbo. Easy summit after climbing Chimbo. 5.5 hours from the hut. The real story is how the brakes when out on the jeep on the way down the mountain. Rolled the jeep onto the roof. Scary, but fortunately no one was hurt.

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