Cayenne Corners, 5.10d, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Cayenne Corners is a hidden gem of a climb located in plain sight.  Two of the more popular, easier but longer, trade moderate climbs in Red Rock are Ginger Cracks and Crimson Chrysalis.  Cayenne Corners is a route made up of several single pitch long corner systems located just west of Ginger Cracks on Ginger Buttress.  Therefore, Cayenne Corners is located between the beforementioned routes.  Lines of climbers waiting in line to climb Crimson and Ginger whilst ignoring a route with classic potential. A typical phenomenon at Red Rock.

What makes Cayenne unique is that it offers up three corners and two roofs showcasing classic Red Rock 5.9-5.10 crack climbing.  The first pitch starts in a clean and black varnished left facing corner reminiscent of the crux corner pitch on Sour Mash.   This pitch contains the singular pro bolt on the entire route (2020).  You top out of the corner and continue into a fun wide crack to a fixed rap ledge out left.  The 2^nd pitch contains the crux of the climb, a finger roof traverse out right to a dramatic and committing pull.  The 3^rd pitch is unremarkable.  The 4^th pitch, again, is made up of a right facing corner to a rightward roof pull.  Only this time the roof is hands-fist and the pull out the right end is easier than the 2^nd pitch roof.  The 5^th pitch is skipped by many and rightfully so unless you are as committed as I am to climbing routes in their entirety.  It passes a piton into a chossy wide finish to another fixed rap. 

Hike up to the Cloud Tower area as though you are hiking to the base of Unimpeachable Groping and Ginger Cracks.  At the base of Ginger Cracks, traverse right through the bushes to an obvious slab gully that leads to a pure black varnished deep left facing corner.  This gully-corner starts pitch one. 

 Route Description

1^st Pitch- 200’-5.9/ This pitch is longer than the 165’ that it was published at the time I climbed it, but can still be rapped with a 70m rope by a competent party allowing for downclimbing a bit of low angled 5^th class ramp gully.  This is an excellent pitch at the grade.  Scramble up the gully slab and traverse right across the slab to the base of the black and slick corner (reminiscent of the black corner pitch on Sour Mash).  Climb the left facing corner through the lone bolt on the route.  Continue up as the corner turns to a typical well featured Red Rock crack.  Near 200’, you traverse out left several meters past loose blocks to a fixed rap above a small ledge.

2^nd Pitch- 150’-5.10+/ This pitch is considerably shorter than what has been published to date (180’) and can also be rapped with a single 70m rope via two raps utilizing a slung tree just up and left from the top of the first pitch.  Another good pitch.  Traverse back right and continue up the crack as it becomes a right facing corner.  Fun climbing below the grade up to the roof.  Traverse the roof out right via hands and fingers.  Feet show up just when you need them.  The crux is the committing pull itself, up and over the right end of the roof.  Make a physical and slightly dyno move for an arete jug.  Mantle on up and continue up the corner and face to the left to a bolted belay. 

3^rd Pitch- 120’-5.8/ Move left and up a mossy crack.  Trend back right at the top of the crack and cross slab to the base of a pedestal.  Climb the left side of the pedestal to a fixed rap. 

4^th Pitch- 115’-5.10/ Climb the hand sized crack in the right facing corner up to the obvious roof.  Traverse out right under the roof with good hands to fists, maybe losing feet for a move or two and pull it on its right end.  This is a much easier roof pull than the roof on pitch #2.  Continue up, below grade, to a fixed rap. 

5^th Pitch- 90’-5.9/ Climb up through a piton and pull the chossy corner/roof on the left.  Continue up, below grade, the wide left facing corner to a fixed rap out left.  Well featured climbing with a significant tree in the way. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Despite MP.com saying you need double ropes to rap this route, a 70m rope can get you down.  Make three single 70m rope raps back to the top of pitch #2.  Then a single 70m rope rap, climbers left to a slung (2020) tree.  Then a short rap to the top of pitch #1.  Then a full 70m rope rap gets you to the top of the slab gully at the start of the route.  Downclimb 4th/5^th class from there.

Essential gear

Single to #3.  Double #.5 to #2.  Set of wires or off-set cams.  Utilize shoulder length slings to extend your gear placements appropriately.  First and second pitches are long and traversing.  Single 70m rope or double 60m ropes if you are intent on skipping the tree rap.  All day shade on this wall.