Central Gully

Page Type
Route
Location:
Bavaria, Germany, Europe
Route Type:
Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Winter
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
WI 4 , M5

Route Quality: 2 Votes

3058 Hits
76.66% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Central Gully
Created On: Jan 22, 2007
Last Edited On: Aug 4, 2007

Overview

The Central Couloir is the most ambitious route of the Jochberg North Face.
You have to climb about 450 meters.
It’s a sequence of longer, sheer ice falls and some walking passages through snow and firn fields.
Mostly the ice steps are about 30 meters and offer some variations.
The route is only possible to climb in cold winters with enough snow and ice.

Getting There

From the last parking range on the right side, under the saddle behind a straight right turn,
cross the street and turn right, ascending through the wood.
When you follow the line up you have to go straight to the wall, there is, easy to find, the entry to the gully.

Route Description

In the beginning you have to shovel through deeper snow to reach the climbable ice
The route follows a natural line.

Better is to climb on the left side in the beginning, and after reaching the central “Atrium” stay more on the right side to hold the line.
In the “Atrium” you can change the route and take the Waterfall on the left hand side, this route ends directly at the summit point of the Jochberg, but its not a very attractive route because the upper part of the route is more rock than ice climbing.

Partially you can find good drilled secure points. Normally, there are good possibilities for secure points, positioning ice screws and slings. Sometimes you can use pine tree branches for your positioning and to belay.
At the exit of the gully you have to walk the last meters towards the left side on the summit of the Jochberg.

Essential Gear

Full Ice Climbing Equipment

2 Ice Tools,
Crampons,
Helmet,
Harness,
2 x 60 m ropes,
Ice srews

External Links

A german ice climbing guide published by panico with the Jochberg routes and descriptions:
https://www.panico.de/de/panico_buecher/eiskletterfuehrer/garmisch_bregenz.php

For actual route conditions hav a look at this swiss page:
http://www.bergtour.ch/