Cerro Dos Picos

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America
County:
Northern Patagonia
Activities:
Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
7464 ft / 2275 m
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Cerro Dos Picos
Created On: May 2, 2011
Last Edited On: Mar 21, 2018

Overview


Cerro Dos Picos 2275 m

San Lorenzo Group is a wild and charming area located within "Francisco Perito Moreno" National Park, Santa Cruz Province, Northern Patagonia. On the highest summit of the chain, called "San Lorenzo" by the Argentinians and "Cochrane" by the Chileans, runs the boundary line between the two countries. These summits don't show the impressive and awesome granite walls that can be seen in Paine or Fitz Roy groups; their appeal is due to the secluded location and the extraordinary environment, absolutely fascinating for people wishing to practice an explorative kind of mountaineering. As its name says, Cerro Dos Picos (Dos Picos means "Two Peaks") is a fine bicuspidate peak belonging to San Lorenzo Group and situated in a secluded location, near San Lorenzo main summit and East to Cerro Hermoso. 


The two summits are separated by a saddle named Paso Hermoso; on the South side of the peak lies a conspicuous glacier. Due to its shape, Cerro Dos Picos had been originally indicated with the name of "Twin Peak" in the reports of the first and second summiters, both South Africans.

Cerro Dos Picos from the high campsite
Cerro Dos Picos from the high campsite

Getting There

Road access

Cerro Dos Picos lies in the Argentinian side of San Lorenzo Group, wilder and less frequented than the Chilean one. Anyway, the approach from Argentina is easy, due to the good tracks coming from Gobernador Gregores to the last "estancias" inside the park. From Gobernador Gregores, a small town lying in Santa Cruz province, Rio Chico department, head towards NW and leave the main Ruta 40 at a fork named "Las Horquetas", where a road heading North-West starts. Take this road, skirting the magnificent Lago Belgrano and leading to Estancia El Rincon (870 mt).


Walking approach

It's possible to get to Cerro Dos Picos from Estancia El Rincon by means of a two days approach on horseback. From the farm head towards North, entering the Rio Lacteo Valley and reaching Puesto San Lorenzo m. 980, a secluded outpost where you can spend the first night, inside a little wooden cabin. The name "Rio Lacteo", which means "Milky Stream", is probably due to the colour of the water. On the second day of the approach trail, about 8 kilometers long, you can enjoy a superb view over the magnificent San Lorenzo East face. When getting the head of the valley, the track forks. While the left path leads to a lagoon located between San Lorenzo main summit and Cerro Hermoso, the right one reachs a good campsite, lying at the end of the forest, just in front of Cerro Hermoso and Cerro Dos Picos South sides.

Cerro Hermoso at sundown

Cerro Hermoso at sundown seen from the BC

Cerro Dos Picos main routes

 

Cerro Dos Picos Zorro Colorado Route topo

Cerro Dos Picos East summit

- South-African route - A South-African team summited the East horn climbing a route without leaving any other detail.

Cerro Dos Picos West summit

- Zorro Colorado (Red Fox route) Alpine D, 80° on the seracs-wall, 800 m. A fine ice-climbing on South Face

The route climbs directly the steep seracs' wall with several pitches (some pitches till 80°), gaining the upper easier snow slopes and following those to a rocky saddle on the West Ridge. A rocky ridge (poor rock, max IV grade UIAA) leads to the West summit.

- West Ridge UIAA IV, 2 pitches

This route climbs the short rocky ridge starting from Paso Hermoso

- South Spur UIAA III, IV, a short V graded move

This route climb the rocky spur facing South. Poor rock.

- South-African route The second summiters of the peak, also South Africans, climbed the West horn. There is no info about the route


Descent: downclimb the rocky West ridge (one abseil) reaching a rocky saddle; from here continue down along the ridge, more and more easily reaching a col (Paso Hermoso), situated between Cerro Dos Picos and Cerro Hermoso. Descend towards South along some gently angled snow slopes, leading down to the moraine and the Base Camp.

History

Cerro Dos Picos West summit
Cerro Dos Picos West summit


Cerro Dos Picos first ascents


1st ascent (East Summit) Richard Hoare - Greg Moseley (South Africa) 1977

2nd ascent (West Summit) P.Fatti- J.Moss - R. Smithers - G. Pallister (South Africa) 1980

3d ascent (West Summit) Gino Buscaini-Silvia Metzeltin (Italy) 26.1.1985 from Paso Hermoso, 2 pitches, IV grade UIAA


4th ascent (West Summit) Alberto Rampini - Davide Brighenti (Italy) 21.11.1987 along South Face Zorro Colorado Route (The Red Fox) D 80° max mt. 800

5th ascent (West Summit) South Spur Lino Castiglia, Andrea Giorda, Mario Ogliengo, Giorgio e Franco Ribetti (Italy) 21.12.1987

Further ascents by O. Di Pietro and G. Pettigax (jan 1990) and by H. Holzmayer, L. Kronast and S. Thaller - Germany (jan 1995)

Red Tape

The argentinian side of San Lorenzo Group is located inside "Francisco Perito Moreno" National Park. There are not particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Where to stay

Estancia El Rincon
Estancia El Rincon

- Estancia El Rincon located at the end of the access road, pass the entrance of the Park

- Puesto San Lorenzo (little wooden cabin)

- A good campsite is located just in front of Cerro Dos Picos South face, at the end of the wood.

When to climb

Best season goes from November to February

Meteo

Meteo Patagonia/San Lorenzo

External Links

Tecpetrol Cuadernos Patagonicos - in Spanish

GuideBooks

 

Cerro Dos Picos map

 

Patagonia Guidebook

"Patagonia Terra Magica per viaggiatori e alpinisti" by Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin