Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 27.81839°N / 87.15190°E
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Additional Information Elevation: 24012 ft / 7319 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Chamlang is a spectacular peak situated in the remote Hongu Valley of Eastern Nepal. In the Sherpa Language Chamlang mean "big bird flapping wings" due to the shape of the mountain. The peak lies about 16km southwest of Makalu and has three majors summits: main (7319m), east (7235m) and central (7180m). 

Chamlang in evening light...
Chamlang in evening light...






















The mountain dominates the horizon to the northeast when seen from Mera Peak.
Himalayan Twilight
Himalayan Twilight


















Chamlang is not a popular peak by any means. I found a few climbing reports (see "External Links") on the Internet but information is far and few in between.

Known Ascents

Main Summit
1962
Japanese Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido via the south ridge. First ascent
1986 Second ascent via the west ridge. Japanese expedition
1987 Korean-Nepalese expedition via the south ridge
1990 West face via the west ridge. German expedition
1991 First British ascent via the south ridge

Other Summits
1981 Reinhold Messner and Doug Scott climbed a minor summit (7010m) via the north face (*)
1984 Doug Scott and his party made a east to central summits traversal
1989 East summit via the north face. Dutch women expedition

As far as I know the north face remains unclimbed as of Dec 2015.

These are all I can find. PM me if you know any other.

(*) An interesting tidbit about this expedition: Messner and Scott claimed to have seen some UFO object during the climb

Getting There

Virtually all climbers start the walk-in from Lukla. To get to Lukla, you can catch a mountain flight from Kathmandu. Flight cancellation is pretty common so it's wise to schedule some buffer days (both ways).

From Lukla to the Chamlang Base Camp, follow the route to Mera Peak up to the Mera La. There are two routes:

Lukla (2860m) - Puiya (2796m)  - Pangum (2846m) - Narjing Dingma (2700m) - Chalem Kharka (3440m) - Khola Kharka (4120m) - Kote (3500m) - Tangnag (4140m, 2 nights) - Khare (4940m, 2-3 nights) - Mera La - BC

-OR-

Lukla - Chutanga (3400m, 2 nights) - Tuli Kharka (4400m) - Kote - Tangnag (2 nights) - Khare (2-3 nights) - Mera La - BC

The first option is longer but allows more gradual acclimisation while the second option involves a very steep ascent of the Zatra La (4600m) on the 3rd day.
Zatra La
Zatra La 

Red Tape

You'll need a climbing permit for the peak and trekking permit for the walk-in.

Climbing royalty for foreigners: $500 for spring, $250 for fall and $125 for winter/summer.

When to Climb

Spring (March-May) or Fall (Sept-Nov)

Camping

There are many tea houses along the way from Lukla to Khare. However most big groups (mostly to Mera Peak) choose to sleep in tents and use facilities provided by the tea houses.

I also heard (from a lodge owner in Khare) there are now two simple lodges in the Hongu Valley but I can't verify that myself.

External Links

Big Bird Flapping Wings - Andrew Pollard - About the first British ascent in 1991

British Chamlang North Face Expedition 2012 - A report on an unsuccessful attempt on the North Face

Windy in Hongu - Andy Houseman - A blog post on the 2012 British Expedition

The Climb of Mount Chamlang - The Himalayan Journal - An article about the first ascent of the mountain


Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Stefan Köhler - Sep 25, 2019 3:07 pm - Hasn't voted

Chamlang Peak Nepal 7319m (Main Summit)

Correcctions and Addistions: Data´s to 1., 2. and 3. th ascent are correct. 4.th ascent is first ascent of NW-Face in combination with W-Face and first ascent in alpine style by German Expedition 5.th ascent ist correct 6. th ascent is a Spain Expedition in 2015 via W-Ridge 7. th ascent is a Czech Expedition in 2019 via new and direct line of NW-Face in alpine style Stefan Köhler, Germany

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Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

The Hongu ValleyMountains & Rocks