Chapeau de Gendarme

Chapeau de Gendarme

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 44.33749°N / 6.66536°E
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 8809 ft / 2685 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

 

Chapeau de Gendarme 2685 m

The Ubaye Valley is an area belonging to the French Alpes de Haute-Provence, situated in proximity of France - Italy border. The two main climbing areas of Ubaye are quite unlike; the Maljasset area shows some beautiful peaks, as Aiguille Large de Mary and Aiguille Pierre Andrè, built in by quartzite, while the Barcelonnette area is dominated by two awesome limestone towers: Pain de Sucre and the close Chapeau de Gendarme, both located along the road rising from Barcelonnette to the Col de la Cayolle and crossing the little village of Villard d’Abas.

Chapeau de Gendarme
Chapeau de Gendarme
Sonnez e Montez, a light fog lifting over the chimney-crack - Chapeau de Gendarme
Sonnez e Montez

From here each climber’s eye is inevitably attracted from the stunning triangular face of Chapeau de Gendarme, meaning "Cop's hat", a surprising and coloured wall offering a limestone of exceptional quality, the best one of Ubaye. The first route – “Accloche-toi Jeannot” - was realized in 1993 by R. Chevalier, G. Fiaschi and J. Golè. At present the peak has eight routes.

Chapeau de Gendarme, the limestone wall
Chapeau de Gendarme, the limestone wall

Getting There

Road access

From Barcelonnette follow the narrow road rising toward Col de la Cayolle as far as the village of Villard d’Abas (14 km. from Barcelonnette). Parking after the village in a road pull-out (bridge, Equipment House, mt. 1530).

Scenery from the approach path
Scenery from the approach path
Chapeau de Gendarme, the ledge
Chapeau de Gendarme, the ledge

Walking approach The path is starting nearby the bridge and it’s quickly rising to the small village of Vèsinat; with several hairpins the path rises inside a nice wood and reachs a fork after walking for 45 minutes. Turn to right, reaching the ruins of Petite Cloche, rising towards left along meadows, little woods and a steep grassy slope leading to the grassy horizontal ledge cutting the wall 80 mt. over the base. Follow the ledge towards right, reaching a wide gully. Up the gully; a fixed rope leads to an other ledge. Follow the ledge skirting the wall towards left and reaching the bell at the starting point of the route.

Sonnez et Montez overview

Sonnez et Montez  (Ring and climb)

Summit altitude: 2565 m
Difficulty: F6a max, 5c+ obbl.
Length: 240 m
Exposure: S
First ascent: R. Chevalier – J. Golè 1995
Starting point: Villard d’Abas

A superb logic line, direct and aesthetic; an homogeneous climb on excellent grey limestone. Good belays and equipment. Before climbing...don't forget to ring the bell!

Sonnez e Montez: the little bell
Sonnez e Montez: the little bell
Chapeau de Gendarme, Sonnez e Montez
Chapeau de Gendarme, Sonnez e Montez

Route report

L1- Climb a short slant corner, a flake and a grey slab surrounding a huge overhang on its left-hand side. Belay on a terrace over the overhang. 5b, then 5c.
L2 – Rise along two subsequent little pillars on their left side, then climb a short grey wall. Climb a fine slab on the pillar's right-hand side. 4c, 5b, 6a+, 5c.
L3 – Climb a shallow corner, reaching a little ledge, then a compact slab. 5b, 6a

Chapeau de Gendarme, Sonnez e Montez organ's pipe slab
Chapeau de Gendarme, Sonnez e Montez organ's pipe slab
Belay along Sonnez et  Montez, Chapeau de Gendarme, Ubaye
Belay along Sonnez et Montez

L4 – Climb a big flake, leave the flake on your right-hand side and then up a slab, alternating compact rock and thin cracks. A little corner slanting left leads towards left to a steep slab. Climb the slab to the belay. 5c, 6a.
L5 – From the belay head to left to reach a chimney-crack. Climb it, then a corner, overhanging in its upper section. A new easier chimney leads to the belay.
L6 - Traverse 5 meters to right, climb a wall lightly overhanging, then a grey and pleasant slab. Short pitch, belay on the left. 5c, A0
L7 - Great pitch. Climb directly a superb slab, steep and sculpted. 5c+, 5b

Two choices for the descent:

- the best one is abseiling the route by seven "gazeuse" abseils - another chance is a scramble down along the very steep East grassy slopes

Water drops limestone on Chapeau de Gendarme
Water drops limestone
Chapeau de Gendarme, beautiful slabs on Sonnez et Montez
Beautiful slabs on Sonnez et Montez
On Sonnez et Montez
On Sonnez et Montez

Red tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Other Routes

 

- Serpent d’etoile TD+, 6c max, 6a obbl., 300 m.
- Boulevard des choucas TD+, 6c max, 6a obbl., 280 m.
- Accloche-toi Jeannot TD+, 6b max, 6a obbl., 280 m.
- A cloche-pied TD, 6a max, 5+ obbl., 350 m. 
- Les frères chamois ED-, 7a max, 6b obbl., 200 m.
- Gags à gogo TD+, 6b max, 200 m.
- Les jeans heureux D+, 6a max, 5b obbl., 300 m.

 

Le Chapeau de Gendarme (Gendarme Hat)
Le Chapeau de Gendarme (Gendarme Hat)
A gazeuse rappel on Sonnez e Montez
A gazeuse rappel on Sonnez e Montez

When to climb

Best season goes from June to October

Where to stay

In Barcelonnette there is a wide choice of different kinds of accommodations: hotels, appartments, campgrounds and gites d´etape.

Meteo

Meteo France

Chapeau de Gendarme map

Guidebooks and maps

 

Alpes du Sud and Provence Guidebook

 

 

Ubaye Guidebook

 

- Guidebooks

“Alpes du Sud, Provence” by Hervè Galley, Editions Olizane, Geneve

“La grimpe en Ubaye” by Colin Michel CAF

- Maps

Barcelonnette 3540 OT



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

UbayeMountains & Rocks