Charlet - Ghilini

Page Type
Haute Savoie, France, Europe
Time Required:
A long day
Scottish V

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Charlet - Ghilini
Created On: Aug 14, 2009
Last Edited On: Aug 14, 2009


A popular springtime ice/mixed route on the righthand side of the Pointes supérieures de Pré de Bar. Just above the bergschrund an obvious ice gully leads straight to the ridge crest. Partway up the route an obvious step of ice leads left and up to a route of similar style and character: Madness Tres Mince.

Getting There

Ski to the back left corner of the Argentiere Basin. Cross the bergschrund (probably easiest on the left side) and head towards the gully.

Route Description

Climb a few pitches of low-angle ice to the junction with Madness Tres Mince (to the left).
starting up the route
Continue a short ways on ice to belay below a left-facing chimney/crack. Awkward mixed climbing (Scottish V) through the wide crack leads to iced edges angling up and left towards a narrow strip of ice.
awkward climbing through the wide crack
super fun mixed climbing above the crack
Belay at the base of the strip of ice. Alternatively, reach the base of the ice strip via thin ice/mixed climbing ~10m left of the wide crack. Climb the thin ice strip (maybe crux, depends on season/year), with protection on the right rock wall, up into the upper ice gully.
approaching the thin ice pillar crux
Climb several pitches of thin ice or mixed terrain up a gully system to the ridge crest.
belay in the upper gully system
climbing in the upper gully system
looking down the ice of the Charlet - Ghilini
Rappel the route on fixed anchors or v-threads.
time to rappel

Essential Gear

2 x 60m ropes
ice gear
small rock rack including medium cams and nuts
cord for v-threads
skis will make the approach and especially the descent much faster and enjoyable


Refer to link/guidebooks listed in the Parent heading to this page.

Charlet - Ghilini

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