trhemm - Nov 1, 2020 5:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2020
18+ hr day from the West
3:30 from Roads End parking lot
~6 am dropped packs at the campsite
~6 pm summit
9:30 pm back at campsite
Lots of route finding and approach bush wacking
Fairweather - Oct 18, 2015 12:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1982
South Face
From Charlotte Lake with Jim. The beginning of a fun backpacking trip in the Rae Lakes area. Lawn chairs, beer, and bourbon added to the fun. Well before ultralight gear was popular.
Great route that I have always wanted to repeat (if not for all the hiking).
Dow Williams - Jun 13, 2014 6:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2014
Charlotte Dome
With David from NY. Did the climb in 10 pitches and 4 hours. The upper corner pitch is by far the best pitch, the 8th in Super Topo I believe. Very little 5.8 climbing if any on the route and well protected. Would not hesitate soloing this route, solid rock and easy route finding. We used the bivy and went out the day of our climb as we were done by mid morning. I recommend camping at Charlotte Lake, nice not to carry a big pack any further than that and a quick route to boot not too mention that Charlotte Lake is a nice spot. The bivy is ok, but not as stunning as some make out.
haishan - Sep 11, 2013 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2013
South Face, again
Climbed with my beautiful wife in 8 long pitches. Forgot the topo and got off route early. We climbed a long, sustained 5.8/5.9 crack (excellent) that rejoined the supertopo route at the p7 pink dike. The runout pitch went for nearly a full 200' before I could find an acceptable belay anchor at the base of the furrows. Camping at Charlotte Lake makes a longer day, but avoids huffing your pack the extra 8 mi, and you get a bear box.
bechtt - Sep 3, 2013 12:16 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2013
North Ridge
Another excursion from our Rae lakes loop backpack with the wives. Wes, Brian, and I left Charlotte Lake and reached the climbers camp by following an excellent use trail all of the way. We dropped our backpacks at the camp and 35 minutes later, Wes and I were standing on the summit after an easy approach and scramble along the ridge (Brian made it to the ridge but being his first ever scramble, decided the that 150' below the summit was good enough.) Back at the camp, we re-donned our backpacks and headed down the slope for Charlotte Creek. At this point it got bad because I followed the Charlotte Lake rangers advice and took us over to the south/east side of the creek. Much thrashing, side-hilling, log crawling, and talus hopping ensued with mixed cursing and occasional eating of wild raspberries. We forced our way back across the creek and through dense brush to find the climbers use trail. Which nicely took us all of the way to the Charlotte Creek campsite were we met the wives (sister in Brian's case) who had an enjoyable female bonding day descending the tamer JMT and Bubbs Creek trails.
Hi bechtt- I wonder if we ran into you along the trail towards Glen Pass? We had climbed Charlotte the day before and were on our way to 60 Lakes. We were resting in the shade and chatted for a while about Charlotte Dome. Nice to see other SPers out there!
telemarkdude - Nov 13, 2012 5:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 1986
South Face
I can see why its in Roper's 50 Classics! One of the most enjoyable rock climbs I've ever done. Had three on a rope for this so we had to move fast.
Vitaliy M. - Oct 31, 2011 11:26 am Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2011
South Face
Climbed South Face with approach from the west with Bryan B. Great climb, and bushwhack up Charlotte creek is worthy. I got to lead The Slot pitch and the Furrows which I am really happy about. The Slot was probably the funnest 5.8 pitch I did anywhere, go over a roof, use a crack, and cool face features on the right. Awesome climb.
ChugachMan - Jun 27, 2010 8:01 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2010
South Face and Sore Feet
C2C with Lin in about 21.5 hours from Onion Valley. Lin's feet were wrecked with huge blisters by the end, and going into it with literally no sleep the previous night definitely made it an exhausting day for both of us. The route was fantastic though, and unique with the furrows at the top. Simuled the first half, pitched out the second, for a relaxed 5.5 hour climb. Couldn't find the summit register (missing??), but it was a beautiful day. (Would love a "climber's trail" up Onion Valley though to avoid all those low-angle switchbacks!)
Climbed the South Face with Sper Forjan. We camped at the 10,140' camp and had no problems finding it. Great spot with clean water. Long approach. We made it a 2 day trip because I had to work on the third day. On day 2 we climbed, packed up and hiked out to the cars for a 21 hour day. I was so tired I ended up calling in sick anyway. A three day trip would have been more enjoyable, but it was still an unforgettable trip.
granjero - Sep 8, 2009 6:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2007
South Face
Brilliant climb. Worth every step to get there (from Onion Valley). Stunning views, exposure, and flawless rock. Great summit to watch the sun set.
Deb - Aug 9, 2009 10:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009
Someone Stole My Beer!
Not sure what kind of weather to expect - we ended up with perfect climbing weather, some wind halfway up but enjoyed this peak immensely! Definitely one of my favorites in the Sierra so far, this includes the descent. Very pleasant. Great camping as well and we made some new little friends. :) Great choice Darling! XXOO
OK, who swiped one of my beers from the bear box in Onion Valley?!
ckerth - Jun 17, 2009 6:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
North Ridge
Left the Bubbs Creek Trail from its junction with Charlotte Creek. A use trail can be found just outside of the dense shrubs lining the North side of Charlotte Creek. Once out of the brush the route was mainly class 2/3 as we contoured around to the North side. The route steepens just before the summit with class 3 moves over large blocks. Be careful if the route is wet. It started to rain as we descended and the large smooth slabs became slippery.
I hiked in over Kearsarge Pass and camped at Charlotte Lake on Saturday night. The high quality rock made for very complaisant climbing. I found some good hand cracks, chimneys and a lot of face climbing along the way.
With René Renteria. This is the mother of all classic climbs - every single pitch is outstanding. It took us 8 hours to climb the route. Approached from the East. Trip report
Shirley Lam - Aug 26, 2008 5:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008
Route Climbed: South Face
Sierra Traverse w. Charlotte Dome in 2 days. Started from Roads End in King's Canyon, hiked up Bubb's Creek and climbed the South Face on Saturday. On Sunday, we hiked out through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley. While at Kearsarge Pass, we witnessed an awesome afternoon thunderstorm brewing to the South. We were a little disappointed we didn't get showered to cool down and remove a little of our stink ;)
Tom Fralich - Aug 21, 2008 2:31 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008
South Face (III 5.8)
Mary and I climbed this as a 3-day trip from Onion Valley. We hiked in on day 1 over Kearsarge Pass and got to the great campsites indicated in SuperTopo just before 8PM. Up the next morning and out of camp at 7AM, climbing at 8AM. We climbed the route in 11 pitches, topping out just after 3PM. The Slot (pitch 6) had some fantastic climbing, as did the run-out face pitch (actually not that run-out). The Furrows was a great finish, with steep juggy climbing and then an easy rope-length to a great snack ledge. We did the descent in a little over an hour and were back in camp by 5PM. Hiked out the next morning over Kearsarge Pass in about 7 hours to the car. Definitely a great climb in a spectacular setting, with a long approach through beautiful terrain.
plume - Jun 9, 2007 10:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2007
South Face
A climb that lives up to its classic status. That is, once you get past the first four pitches. Camped in a meadow along Bubbs Creek. watch out for a rusty-colored fearless bear. The poor thing chomped on a fuel canister which exploded in its mouth.
Flex - Dec 20, 2006 6:00 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2003
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Labor Day 1997
First date with the Gazelle: we spent the night about 8 pitches up on the route, hanging off an anchor I constructed by feeling my way in the dark. For good measure the next day had rain and snow for us.
trhemm - Nov 1, 2020 5:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2020
18+ hr day from the West3:30 from Roads End parking lot
~6 am dropped packs at the campsite
~6 pm summit
9:30 pm back at campsite
Lots of route finding and approach bush wacking
Fairweather - Oct 18, 2015 12:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1982
South FaceFrom Charlotte Lake with Jim. The beginning of a fun backpacking trip in the Rae Lakes area. Lawn chairs, beer, and bourbon added to the fun. Well before ultralight gear was popular.
Great route that I have always wanted to repeat (if not for all the hiking).
Dow Williams - Jun 13, 2014 6:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2014
Charlotte DomeWith David from NY. Did the climb in 10 pitches and 4 hours. The upper corner pitch is by far the best pitch, the 8th in Super Topo I believe. Very little 5.8 climbing if any on the route and well protected. Would not hesitate soloing this route, solid rock and easy route finding. We used the bivy and went out the day of our climb as we were done by mid morning. I recommend camping at Charlotte Lake, nice not to carry a big pack any further than that and a quick route to boot not too mention that Charlotte Lake is a nice spot. The bivy is ok, but not as stunning as some make out.
haishan - Sep 11, 2013 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2013
South Face, againClimbed with my beautiful wife in 8 long pitches. Forgot the topo and got off route early. We climbed a long, sustained 5.8/5.9 crack (excellent) that rejoined the supertopo route at the p7 pink dike. The runout pitch went for nearly a full 200' before I could find an acceptable belay anchor at the base of the furrows. Camping at Charlotte Lake makes a longer day, but avoids huffing your pack the extra 8 mi, and you get a bear box.
bechtt - Sep 3, 2013 12:16 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2013
North RidgeAnother excursion from our Rae lakes loop backpack with the wives. Wes, Brian, and I left Charlotte Lake and reached the climbers camp by following an excellent use trail all of the way. We dropped our backpacks at the camp and 35 minutes later, Wes and I were standing on the summit after an easy approach and scramble along the ridge (Brian made it to the ridge but being his first ever scramble, decided the that 150' below the summit was good enough.) Back at the camp, we re-donned our backpacks and headed down the slope for Charlotte Creek. At this point it got bad because I followed the Charlotte Lake rangers advice and took us over to the south/east side of the creek. Much thrashing, side-hilling, log crawling, and talus hopping ensued with mixed cursing and occasional eating of wild raspberries. We forced our way back across the creek and through dense brush to find the climbers use trail. Which nicely took us all of the way to the Charlotte Creek campsite were we met the wives (sister in Brian's case) who had an enjoyable female bonding day descending the tamer JMT and Bubbs Creek trails.
haishan - Sep 11, 2013 1:02 pm
Re: North RidgeHi bechtt- I wonder if we ran into you along the trail towards Glen Pass? We had climbed Charlotte the day before and were on our way to 60 Lakes. We were resting in the shade and chatted for a while about Charlotte Dome. Nice to see other SPers out there!
telemarkdude - Nov 13, 2012 5:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 1986
South FaceI can see why its in Roper's 50 Classics! One of the most enjoyable rock climbs I've ever done. Had three on a rope for this so we had to move fast.
Vitaliy M. - Oct 31, 2011 11:26 am Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2011
South FaceClimbed South Face with approach from the west with Bryan B. Great climb, and bushwhack up Charlotte creek is worthy. I got to lead The Slot pitch and the Furrows which I am really happy about. The Slot was probably the funnest 5.8 pitch I did anywhere, go over a roof, use a crack, and cool face features on the right. Awesome climb.
ChugachMan - Jun 27, 2010 8:01 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2010
South Face and Sore FeetC2C with Lin in about 21.5 hours from Onion Valley. Lin's feet were wrecked with huge blisters by the end, and going into it with literally no sleep the previous night definitely made it an exhausting day for both of us. The route was fantastic though, and unique with the furrows at the top. Simuled the first half, pitched out the second, for a relaxed 5.5 hour climb. Couldn't find the summit register (missing??), but it was a beautiful day. (Would love a "climber's trail" up Onion Valley though to avoid all those low-angle switchbacks!)
Blackmouth - Sep 17, 2009 12:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009
South FaceClimbed the South Face with Sper Forjan. We camped at the 10,140' camp and had no problems finding it. Great spot with clean water. Long approach. We made it a 2 day trip because I had to work on the third day. On day 2 we climbed, packed up and hiked out to the cars for a 21 hour day. I was so tired I ended up calling in sick anyway. A three day trip would have been more enjoyable, but it was still an unforgettable trip.
granjero - Sep 8, 2009 6:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2007
South FaceBrilliant climb. Worth every step to get there (from Onion Valley). Stunning views, exposure, and flawless rock. Great summit to watch the sun set.
Deb - Aug 9, 2009 10:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009
Someone Stole My Beer!Not sure what kind of weather to expect - we ended up with perfect climbing weather, some wind halfway up but enjoyed this peak immensely! Definitely one of my favorites in the Sierra so far, this includes the descent. Very pleasant. Great camping as well and we made some new little friends. :) Great choice Darling! XXOO
OK, who swiped one of my beers from the bear box in Onion Valley?!
ckerth - Jun 17, 2009 6:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
North RidgeLeft the Bubbs Creek Trail from its junction with Charlotte Creek. A use trail can be found just outside of the dense shrubs lining the North side of Charlotte Creek. Once out of the brush the route was mainly class 2/3 as we contoured around to the North side. The route steepens just before the summit with class 3 moves over large blocks. Be careful if the route is wet. It started to rain as we descended and the large smooth slabs became slippery.
atavist - Sep 15, 2008 8:46 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2008
from the east sideI hiked in over Kearsarge Pass and camped at Charlotte Lake on Saturday night. The high quality rock made for very complaisant climbing. I found some good hand cracks, chimneys and a lot of face climbing along the way.
Romain - Sep 15, 2008 12:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008
Charlotte Dome South FaceWith René Renteria. This is the mother of all classic climbs - every single pitch is outstanding. It took us 8 hours to climb the route. Approached from the East. Trip report
Shirley Lam - Aug 26, 2008 5:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008
Route Climbed: South FaceSierra Traverse w. Charlotte Dome in 2 days. Started from Roads End in King's Canyon, hiked up Bubb's Creek and climbed the South Face on Saturday. On Sunday, we hiked out through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley. While at Kearsarge Pass, we witnessed an awesome afternoon thunderstorm brewing to the South. We were a little disappointed we didn't get showered to cool down and remove a little of our stink ;)
Tom Fralich - Aug 21, 2008 2:31 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008
South Face (III 5.8)Mary and I climbed this as a 3-day trip from Onion Valley. We hiked in on day 1 over Kearsarge Pass and got to the great campsites indicated in SuperTopo just before 8PM. Up the next morning and out of camp at 7AM, climbing at 8AM. We climbed the route in 11 pitches, topping out just after 3PM. The Slot (pitch 6) had some fantastic climbing, as did the run-out face pitch (actually not that run-out). The Furrows was a great finish, with steep juggy climbing and then an easy rope-length to a great snack ledge. We did the descent in a little over an hour and were back in camp by 5PM. Hiked out the next morning over Kearsarge Pass in about 7 hours to the car. Definitely a great climb in a spectacular setting, with a long approach through beautiful terrain.
plume - Jun 9, 2007 10:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2007
South FaceA climb that lives up to its classic status. That is, once you get past the first four pitches. Camped in a meadow along Bubbs Creek. watch out for a rusty-colored fearless bear. The poor thing chomped on a fuel canister which exploded in its mouth.
Flex - Dec 20, 2006 6:00 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2003
S Face 2003B-day climb.
old5ten - Jan 9, 2006 4:29 am
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Labor Day 1997First date with the Gazelle: we spent the night about 8 pitches up on the route, hanging off an anchor I constructed by feeling my way in the dark. For good measure the next day had rain and snow for us.