My first backcountry climb at age 17. The bushwhack approach from Bubbs Creek was tedious but worth it. I'll never forget the pristine granite and all those chickenheads! I don't know if we were initially on-route because I remember the first pitch being a chimney.
A wonderful route!
James Demalignon and myself reached the summit in the early afternoon, after a very enjoyable climb up the south face. Anyone reading this that plans to climb Charlotte dome; please take a new pen for the summit log!
What a fantastic climb. We thought that since it was a holiday weekend, the place would be crazy, but we ended up having the whole rock to ourselves. We hiked in from the West on Friday and then climbed and hiked out on Saturday. The descent back to camp wrecked us and it would have been nice stay at camp that night, but I think a few million mosquitos hatched while we were climbing and we had to get out of there as fast as we could (we were tentless in an effort to be "fast and light").
Awesome route - climbed with Keith G. as part of a week in the Sierras. Didn't see anyone for three days. Camped at Charlotte Lake, climbed the dome, and descended by moonlight.
In mid March 1992, Rich Henke, Nancy Jensen, Peter Green and I skied to Charlotte Dome from Onion Valley and in full winter conditions, climbed the South Face. The climb was great, the descent took everything out of us. Many rappels down slabs, that in summer were easy walk caused us to get back to the base next day in the early morning. Same day ski out followed. THE ROUTE IS EXTREMELY SUITABLE TO LATE WINTER SKI/CLIMB COMBINATION. Ours might have been First Winter Ascent
Miguel Carmona, Bob Lindgren, Ed Evans and I climbed the classic S. Face in about 6 hours from our camp at Charlotte Lake in August 1983. We approached the formation from the East and that proved much harder than the climb, 12 hours from Onion Valley. One day in, climb and third day out. Miguel commented that the South Face would be a great winter climb as it faces south, catches all the sun and the approach would be almost easy on skis.
Did the climb with Craig Morris and Funkness. Finding the start is the key. Thanks to Funkness' experience we did not go wrong. The first couple of pitches should not be hard...5.3 at most. When it gets steep you should be at the groove pitches. Look up and you will see, about 4-5 hundred feet up and to the left, the start of a steep arete with some bushes growing on it. Aim for this it is the key. From here a few more pitches will get you to the top....go do this one! I would walk in from the west and spend 3 days doing this. The two dayer we did caused me to suffer for at least two days once we got home!!!!!!!
Climbed this in a 22 hour car-to-car push. I would not recomend it that way. We approached from the East. There were several parties ahead of us on the route, which slowed us a bit. On the hike out we both exhausted and hallucinating. The route is fun, but it is a long hike. Bubbs Creek wall looks interesting.....
This was the scrambler's route to the summit. Mark and I were on our way to Mt. Gardiner, and this was too tempting to just pass by. The best entry in the register was from a pair who did the South Face as a dayhike from Roads End. Trip Report
Excellent route. Partners were Craig M. and Guyzo. Did a weekend trip.
Also: May 1999, climbed an un-known route on the south-east face with Larry Cote. Bunch of pitches, some rusty 1/4 inch bolt's, about..5.9, nice route.