Old School WB - Apr 30, 2016 1:13 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2016
Great day on Guides Rock
Great day out with warm weather, lots of sun, but a cool wind; can't complain too much for early April rock climbing. Went to Guides Rock on Mt. Cory with Brad and did 3 routes.
I started with a lead up “For Sure”, 35m 5.8+, generously bolted. Great delicate slab climbing with the crux having super polished holds, didn’t make for great feet. The crux were two water worn runnels that cut into the blank slab, providing interesting and strenuous side pulls to make them work for hands; slippery feet made this spicy. We did a short simple traverse to the base of “T Bam Crack”, an alternate pitch on the popular “Aftonroe” (5.7, 220m). T Bam is a short (30m ish) trad 5.9 corner/crack. Mostly an awkward corner that doesn’t really flow well, strenuous mini cruxes, but the trad gear is near and super easy for cams. Brad led this very well.
Next we did “Cheese Grater” 100m and 5.8, generously bolted (p1 5.8, 25m; p2 5.7, 20m) Brad's lead, he combined the two pitches. Original route section, similar to For Sure, but a bit easier. The next two pitches are a brand new addition. I did pitch 3, 5.8, 30m, a bit of 5.8 corner and tricky slab. Brad waltzed up the last pitch, 5.8 about 25m; more delicate slab.
Old School WB - Apr 30, 2016 1:13 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2016
Great day on Guides RockGreat day out with warm weather, lots of sun, but a cool wind; can't complain too much for early April rock climbing. Went to Guides Rock on Mt. Cory with Brad and did 3 routes.
I started with a lead up “For Sure”, 35m 5.8+, generously bolted. Great delicate slab climbing with the crux having super polished holds, didn’t make for great feet. The crux were two water worn runnels that cut into the blank slab, providing interesting and strenuous side pulls to make them work for hands; slippery feet made this spicy. We did a short simple traverse to the base of “T Bam Crack”, an alternate pitch on the popular “Aftonroe” (5.7, 220m). T Bam is a short (30m ish) trad 5.9 corner/crack. Mostly an awkward corner that doesn’t really flow well, strenuous mini cruxes, but the trad gear is near and super easy for cams. Brad led this very well.
Next we did “Cheese Grater” 100m and 5.8, generously bolted (p1 5.8, 25m; p2 5.7, 20m) Brad's lead, he combined the two pitches. Original route section, similar to For Sure, but a bit easier. The next two pitches are a brand new addition. I did pitch 3, 5.8, 30m, a bit of 5.8 corner and tricky slab. Brad waltzed up the last pitch, 5.8 about 25m; more delicate slab.