Chernobyl Wall Climbs

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
technical rock
Time Required:
Less than two hours
II, 5.10a to III 5.11

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Chernobyl Wall Climbs
Created On: Oct 7, 2002
Last Edited On: Oct 19, 2009


From the day use parking lot below North Dome, hike up talus and forested slopes to the base of the Dome. Allow 30 - 45 minutes.

Route Description

There are ( to the authors knowledge ) six excellent free climbs on the lower part of North Dome. The following climbs are found on the highly polished apron below the large Roman Arch. From left to right they are -

Enchanted Pork Fist - II, 5.10a. 2 pitches of face and crack climbing. Gear - 2 R.P.'s, 6 stoppers ( medium - large ), Friends to 4"

Rainbow Warrior - III, 5.11a. 4 pitches of face and crack climbing take one to the top of the Roman Arch. Small - medium stoppers and Friends.

Jerks On A Joyride - II, 5.10b. 2 pitches of face climbing lead to the last pitch of Pork Fist. 2 R.P's.

Sub Texas Love - II, 5.11a. 1 1/2 pitches of difficult face climbing end in nowhere.

Split Lips & Broken Bits - II, 5.10a. A fun lieback crack followed by friction and face climbing. 6 small - medium stoppers, Friends # 1 - 4.

Kibbles & Bits - II, 5.10a. 2 pitches of crack and face climbing. 2 small stoppers, Friends # 1 - 4. Belay bolts and all but one protection bolt replaced with Fixe 3/8" bolts Oct. 17th, 2009 ( 1st pitch only ).

Essential Gear

All climbs require two 165' ropes for rappels. To the above mentioned gear, all routes require quick draws or carabiners and slings, of course.

See topo for more detailed route description.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Chernobyl Wall Climbs

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