Cherry Crack, 5.10+

1st half of the top pitch 2nd Pitch- 30m- 5.10+/Although rated 5.10c on Mountain Project and the second pitch rating not addressed in Bryan’s book, I have climbed several 5.10d/11a off-width pitches throughout the desert that were easier then this pitch. The unique size of this sustained crack pitch (4”-5”) makes it tough to get a knee in when you need one for stability not to mention it is too large for most fists no matter how deep you go. You will definitely need to stack your hands in a variety of methods to lead this pitch cleanly. The key for me is to use an ample number of #C4’s (6!). I place them deep and at my waist every time to get them out of the way of my hands and feet. Then hit it with little to any rests. The pure splitter section is more difficult than the beginning flared pod section. It does not ease up until the very top where it eases way off the last couple of meters. Cherry Crack, 5.10+, 2 Pitches, Cerberus Gendarme Wall, Zion National Park, September, 2013