Chimney Sweep, 5.10

6th-7th Pitches- 240’- 5.10/ These additional pitches is what makes this route worth doing if in fact it is worth doing! Towering above you is a spectacular chimney and crack system covering 200’ of straight vertical ground before it ramps out to the finish of the route. We chose to run a full 200’ of hard climbing and then set up a station before running out the last 40’ separately. Whoever added these last two pitches to the original route, called them 5.10 and I concur. They avoided given them a specific letter grade as I will, because as with all off width problems, the grade depends more on your size than other types of climbing. Run up the crack until it opens up into a large chasm of sorts. Move left for an easy move or two and then make a short unprotected traverse back right into the off width section. From here on you will get decent gear set with the exception of a small and cruxy roof pull in the 7th pitch section. When the off width gets really tough, swing your left leg out to catch the wall behind you for some much easier, but wide, stemming moves that gain considerable ground before you have to enter the wide crack again. For the 7th pitch section, the crack narrows to hands and fingers. The crux is pulling a small roof which has a small precarious lip on it in which to springboard up to. From there, the ground is quite dirty and loose, but at a much easier grade. A 70m rope would finish the route, but a 60m needs to set up belay in the crack just at the top of the 200’ steep section. Save large gear (4" and 5" for this belay). photo(s)
Chimney Sweep, 5.10, 7 Pitches, East Spur of Lady Mountain, Zion National Park, March, 2009


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