Chimtarga

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Tajikistan, Asia
Activities:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
18008 ft / 5489 m
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Chimtarga
Created On: Nov 27, 2011
Last Edited On: Dec 2, 2011

Overview

Chimtarga (5489 m) is the highest peak in the Fan Mountains. Located near the Mutnye Lakes, it has no trivial walk-up route to the summit. The ascent routes start either from the Mutnye Lakes or from the Right Zindon valley. The Right Zindon valley can be reached either by hiking in from west via the Big Allo Lake, or from east via the Mutnye Lakes by crossing over the 4750 m high Chimtarga pass, which lies between the peaks Energia (5120 m) and Chimtarga.

Alpenglow on ChimtargaAlpenglow on Chimtarga (in the middle) as seen from the high camp on Zamok.


ChimtargaOn the upper northern slopes of Chimtarga, looking towards the summit.


Chimtarga as seen from EnergiaThe south face of Chimtarga, as seen from the summit of Energia (5120 m).


View on ChimtargaChimtarga as seen from east.
On the way to the Chimtarga passClimbing towards the Chimtarga pass (4750 m) below the SE face of Chimtarga.

Getting There

A usual starting point for climbing in the area is the mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin"(2641 m) in the Chapdara Valley near the gorgeous Alaudin Lakes. From there it is an easy 7 km hike of about 3 hours up to the Mutnye Lakes (3519 m). There is a possibility to hire donkeys at "Vertical-Alaudin".

Chapdara valleyA panoramic view of the Chapdara valley near mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin".


Trail to the Mutnye LakesRoute from the Big Alaudin Lake to the Mutnye Lakes.
Camp at the Mutnye LakesCamping at the Mutnye Lakes (looking south).
Mutnye Lakes and ChimtargaCamp sites at the Mutnye Lakes with Chimtarga in the background (looking west).


For more information, see the chapters "Getting There and Getting Around" and "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page.

Routes

The established routes vary from Russian grade 2b to 6a (description of the Russian climbing grades can be found here). The website of "Vertical-Alaudin" contains detailed information about the more difficult routes on Chimtarga (in Russian only). These links are included in the following table.


Grade (Russian) Characteristics Orientation First Ascent (Leader, Year) Starting Point
2b mixed from north via the Mirali pass A. Mukhin, 1937 Right Zindon valley
4a ice-snow from east via the Don (Avlo) pass Mutnye Lakes
4a ice-snow from SE A. Sibirtcev, 1936 Mutnye Lakes
4b mixed east buttress A. Mineev, 1986 Mutnye Lakes
5a mixed NW face I. Barkhatov, 1967 Right Zindon valley
5a mixed SW buttress L. Kaluzhskii, 1967 Right Zindon valley
5b rock south face V. Ianov, 1976 Mutnye Lakes
5b rock south face-SE ridge V. Stadnik, 1983 Mutnye Lakes
6a rock west face S. Prusakov, 1974 Right Zindon valley
6a rock west face S. Soldatov, 2006 Right Zindon valley

Chimtarga: summit viewApproaching the summit of Chimtarga: a 180° panorama from S to N, looking west.

Red Tape

No fees (environmental, climbing, etc.) as for 2011. Travellers (with a tourist visa) staying maximum 1 month are exempt from the OVIR registration as for 2011. As the conditions are vulnerable to change please check with the Tajik embassy and/or your local agency in Tajikistan.
For visas and registration, see also the chapter "Red Tape (Visas, Border Crossing, Registration etc.)" in the Fan Mountains page.

When to Climb

The mountaineering season is from June to September (July and August being the most popular months), when the weather is usually stable, warm and dry.

External Links

Maps

  • A topographic map of the Fan Mountains
  • A map of the area by V. Kopylov. Mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" is marked as "Base camp" on this map.
  • 1:100 000 topographic map of the Fan Mountains by EWP
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:100 000 and 1:200 000) at Mapstor.com
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:50 000 and 1:100 000) at Poehali.org







Chimtarga

Mountain/Rock
12 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Nearby Mountains & Rocks Interactive Map Mountains & Rocks in Tajikistan

Parents

Fan MountainsMountains & Rocks