Chip Salaun Memorial

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W
Additional Information Route Type: Classic Off-Width
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.10a
Sign the Climber's Log


From the Tower trail, walk up toward the South Face. The climb starts at the base of the Standard South Face Rappel Route.The crack that you are headed for is 2 cracks right of Durrance and 1 crack right of Persistance.

Route Description

This route was first climbed by Christian Baird and Frank Sanders on April 25, 2001. It was named in memory of Chip Salaun, a very Spiritual and Insatiable climber. He had many beautiful days on the Tower and many notable ascents on the Diamond of Long's Peak. An off-width fan, he Climbed the Wide with Pride. On a solo climb, in the New Zealand Alps, he vanished while crossing a heavily crevassed area of glacier. His Spirit Inspires us , yet.

Approach Pitch. ( 150 ft., 5.5). Climb up the last pitch of the Standard South Face Rappels. Belay at bolted rap anchor.

Pitch 1. (160 ft., 5.10a). From the belay station, climb the crack to your left, which is the start of Persistance. Hand and fist jams lead to off-width. About 20 ft up, traverse across the face, to the right and into CSM crack , proper. A number of off-width techniques and some endurance will take you to the crack's abrupt end. Traverse left using a horizontal finger seam and finish on the last 15 ft. of Persistance. Belay atop the Durrance column from a 4 Big Bolt Anchor.

Pitch 2-Finish. You can continue up the Durrance Route from here or finish on the Persistance Route, or drop a top-rope and do laps on the wide CSM crack until you get the technique perfected. Its a good one to know.

Essential Gear

This can be a very well protected route. We used:
5-#4 Camalots
2-#3.5 Camalots
3-#3 Camalots
1-#1 Friend
Save a #4 for the crack's end. It protects the finger traverse wonderfully.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.