Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.24360°N / 11.86370°E
Additional Information County: Trentino Alto Adige
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Additional Information Elevation: 9505 ft / 2897 m
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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Pale di San Martino > Cima Canali

Cima Canali 2897 m

In upper Val Pradidali it rises a mountain with a singular and majestic shape, well known by mountaineers as it offers several challenging routes: it's Cima Canali, belonging to Pale di San Martino, Central Hub. From whatever side one looks at this peak, he will remain attracted by its beauty. In reason of the high quality dolomia and the variety of different high-level routes, as well as the armony of shape, Cima Canali is in fact one of the most attractive mountains not only of Pale di San Martino, but of the whole Dolomites. The appearance of the mountain is superb and imposing on all sides, but especially stands out the West side, the one facing the Refuge Pradidali and the most popular in reason of the beauty and the boldness of its routes, which has truly a magical look: it is a complex wall formed by a series of steep pillars and yellowish towers, fascinating irresistibly the viewer from Refuge Pradidali, especially in the red glow of the sunset.

 

Cima Canali West Face

Cima Canali seen from West

Starting from the left we see: "I Gemelli", two small and elegant pillars, very similar, separated by a deep gorge, the "Pilastro Buhl", which takes its name by mountaineer who climbed the most famous route of Cima Canali and path five routes, "Il Salame" which looks like a tower that dominates all others, and makes the mountain like a castle, "Pilastro Brunet", the sharp "Torre Gialla" and finally "La Figlia della Canali" , separate from the main body by a deep and steep slanting canyon.

Cima CanaliCseh Làszlò - Alpenglow on Cima Canali
Evening tranquillityVida Szabi - Peaceful evening

 

The South face of the mountain casts a complex and high triangular separate wall from the rest, Pala Canali, while the East wall is built as well by several towers and pillars like W face. It's a jagged and complex wall, wild and much less frequented than the other ones, but no less fascinating.

History

The conquest of the summit took place on 1879, August 30th, by M. Bettega and the English C.C. Tucker. Some of the greatest protagonists of mountaineering in the Sixth Grade Age linked their name to Cima Canali, like Gino Soldà, Bruno Detassis, Ettore Castiglioni, Hermann Buhl and more recently Sergio Martini and Maurizio Zanolla "Manolo". They climbed in first ascent some of the most challenging routes on Cima Canali.

 

 

 

Bruno Detassis and Ettore Castiglioni

B. Detassis and E. Castiglioni

A portrait of Gino Soldà at K2

Gino Soldà

Heinz Mariacher

Hermann Buhl

Sergio Martini

Sergio Martini

Maurizio Zanolla

Maurizio Zanolla

Getting There

The closest town is Fiera di Primiero. Cima Canali West side can be reached starting from Fiera di Primiero along Val Canali and then along Val Pradidali, while East side can be reached along Val Canali and Vallone delle Lede. Another possible approach is from the upper Pale di San Martino tableland along the CAI path n. 709 to get to the West side, or the CAI path 711 to get the East side. It will be decribed the approach from Val Canali.

 

 

Road access

- Coming from A22 Autobrennero exit Trento and take the Valsugana road. Follow it reaching the junction to Feltre in Primolano. At the junction leave the Valsugana road and take the road to Feltre, then follow the road to Fiera di Primiero. In Fiera di Primiero take the road to Passo Cereda, shortly before this proceed towards Val Canali and reach La Ritonda parking where the road ends.

- Coming from A4 Milano-Venezia Motorway exit Padova West, reach Bassano del Grappa, take the Valsugana road to the junction towards Feltre in Primolano. In Primolano leave the Valsugana road and carry on as described in the previous chapter.

Walking approach to Rifugio Pradidali

From the parking near "La Ritonda" follow the good path 709 which enters the beautiful Val Pradidali, leading to Rifugio Pradidali (2.30 - 3 hours from the parking lot).

 

Walls and routes

The highest and most frequented wall is the majestic West Wall, overlooking Rifugio Pradidali. Starting from the left we see: "I Gemelli", two small and elegant pillars, very similar, separated by a deep gorge, "Pilastro Buhl", which takes its name by the mountaineer who climbed the most famous route of Cima Canali and has five routes, "Il Salame" which looks like a tower that dominates all others, and makes the mountain similar to a castle, "Pilastro Brunet" massive and rounded, the sharp "Torre Gialla" and finally "La Figlia della Canali", separate from the main body by a deep and steep slanting gully.

 

 

 

Cima Canali and Cima Wilma seen from Biv. Minazio

Cima Canali and Cima Wilma from Biv. Minazio

Cima Canali

Detail of West Face

Cima Canali seen from Cima di Val di Roda

Andrea - Cima Canali from Cima di Val di Roda

South Face casts a complex and high triangular wall separate from the rest, Pala Canali. Even the East wall presents a series of several towers and pillars, these are numerous and do not present the solid geometry of those on the opposite side. It's a jagged and complex wall, wild and much less frequented than the other ones, but no less fascinating.

Cima Canali Normal route

Difficulty: PD, II and III (1 length) Development: 600 m Material: belays equipped Times: Approaching 15 minutes from Pradidali, 3 hours uphill, 2 hours downhill

It's an easy good route, the route climbed by the first summiters of Cima Canali, and followed to descent from the top

West wall routes from left to right

- Via Brunet-Pellican NW Ridge - Via Anglada - Via Crisalide - Via Simon Wiessner - Via Strani Incontri - Via Buhl - Via Despiau-Barokas al Salame - Via Heidi - Via Franzina-Novello - Via Trifoglio appassito - Via Mazzotti-Cappelletto - Via Brunet-Pellican - Via Cubeddu - Via Pagani

Torre Gialla

- Via Solleder - Via Soldà - Via Leviti-Sommadossi - Via Franzina-Valdo

Some Images from Cima Canali West wall

 
Cima Canali from West

Cima Canali from West

Detail of Torre Gialla (on the left) and Figlia della Canali (on the right)

Torre Gialla and Figlia della Canali

Vintage shot on routa Soldà, Torre Gialla - Cima Canali

On Soldà, Torre Gialla

Powerful Sass Maor seen from Cima Canali

Sass Maor seen from Cima Canali

 

Figlia della Canali - Via Normale - Via Manolo - Via Franceschini Pala Canali (South wall) - Via Zonta-Berti - Via Castiglioni-Detassis - Via Dipankar - Via Zonta-Zonta East wall - Via dei Bortoli - Via Brunet-Scalet - Via Kess Terschak - Via delle Righe Nere - Via Plaichinger Hamburger - Via Zecchini-Brodie and North-South crossing of Cima Canali

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cima Canali is located inside a wild and preserved setting.

Huts and Bivouacs

- Rifugio Pradidali 2278 m. Situation: Pale di San Martino Central Hub, upper Val Pradidali Open: 15 of June - 30 of September Size: 65 pers. Owner: C.A.I. Treviso Guardian: Duilio Boninsegna Hut's phone 0039-0439-64180 Guardian's phone:0039-3482455732 Getting There: from La Ritonda - Can del Gal (Val Canali) 2,30-3 hours From La Ritonda (parking lot) you reach the hut in 2.5 to 3 hours following the path n. 709 running through Val Pradidali - Bivacco Carlo Minazio on Vallone delle Lede 2250 m. Situation: Pale di San Martino Central Hub, Vallone delle Lede Open: always Size: 12 pers. Getting There: from Malga Canali (Val Canali) - 3 hours From Cant del Gal - La Ritonda take on the right the road entering Val Canali and drive as far as the road ends. Take the path n. 707, at the fork follow the path 711 On 1957, July 19 th, to the north of the Bivouac, it occurred a plane crash: an US military aircraft crashed into the south wall, and 11 airmen were killed. In memory of the fallen, near the bivouac was affixed a plaque on which are listed the names and grades of the airmen. In the area are still clearly visible the wreckage of the aircraft.
Rifugio Pradidali
Rifugio Pradidali
Bivacco Minazio
Bivacco Minazio

Natural Parks

Cima del Coro is located inside Pale di San Martino group. This area, shared between the provinces of Trento and Belluno, is one of the nine mountain systems of the Dolomites acknowledged as UNESCO World Heritage Site. More info about here: Dolomites living mountains Unesco World Heritage

When to Climb

Best period goes from middle June to middle September.

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO
ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

Guidebook and maps

 
Cima Canali map
 
Pale di San Martino guidebook
"Pale di San Martino - Arrampicare, Camminare, Volare" - Samuele Scalet, Sebastiano Zagonel, Tullio Simoni, Mariano Lott, Duilio Boninsegna - Edizioni Versante Sud 2002 ISBN88-87890-08-0 (24,50 Euro)


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Pale di San MartinoMountains & Rocks