Cima Margherita

Page Type
Trento, Italy, Europe
Trad Climbing
9333 ft / 2845 m
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81.84% Score
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Cima Margherita
Created On: Jan 27, 2004
Last Edited On: Jan 1, 2008


Nice rock mountain between Cima Tosa and Brenta Bassa
It has 3 walls and 2 ridges
Cima Margherita - south wall
Cima Margherita
Cima Margherita from Bocca di...
Cima Margherita - the upper...

Known almost only for its S vertical wall coloured in grey, yellow and black and well highlighted to the ones walking on the path between the Rifugio Agostini (Ambiez) and Rifugio Pedrotti.
The N side is a huge overhanging wall, very difficult, up to little more than half height, then becomes less steeper and not difficult but made of bad quality rock.

routes overview

Cima Margherita - south wall...
South wall, 280m, wonderful yellow and black rock : amusing and created to be climbed
on this wall 3 routes are worth to spend half a day

- via Videsott : (III+/IV) - easy and very amusing (route 95m on the photo)
- fessura Giordani : (V) - very fine - the shortest to the top (route 95n on the photo)
- fessura Detassis : (V-) - very fine and exposed (route 95o on the photo)

West ridge, easy, normally used for the descent
Cima Margherita - north wall...
North wall, 600m (450 from the ledge) , convex and wide, hard to climb

- NNW wall - Pfeiffer-Reiff : rock and ice, difficult and dangerous ... aware
- via Cesare Danese (Steinkotter) : (VI, A3) (route 95d on the photo)
- via Trieste (Migliorini) : (V/VI) (route 95e on the photo)

East wall, 250m, yellow and narrow in a strange and wild ambient

- via Disertori-Friederichsen-Graffer : (IV) fine and amusing

ESE ridge, only for descent

the NNW channel (canalone Merzbacher) brings to the Bocca Margherita (2720m)
It is not difficult, looks fine but is very dangerous

Getting There

for all climbs the starting point are Rifugio Brentei (2182m) or
Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m)
you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei,
then path 318
2 h walk from Vallesinella you get the Rif.Brentei
in 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta you can get the Rif.Pedrotti

Red Tape

natural park !

When To Climb

starting from May for the south wall
July - August - September for the north wall


Sant' Antonio di Mavignola
if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)
near the Rif.Pedrotti meadows are little but you can do the same thing :)