Cima Occidentale del Vallon

Cima Occidentale del Vallon

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.51729°N / 11.83737°E
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Via Ferrata
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 9534 ft / 2906 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Cima Occidentale del Vallon 2906 m

In the Eastern sector of the Sella massifBoè Subgroup, there is a suggestive scree basin, the Vallon, enclosed between colorful and imposing Dolomite walls. A well known small group of three beautiful towers of "dolomia" are situated to the North (right side) of the basin: from left to right we see Sasso delle Nove 2904 m (Sass dals Nü in ladin), Sass dal Diesc 2916 m and Piz da Lec de Boe 2911 m, the Northernmost. These fascinating peaks overlook with their stunning East walls the Vallon basin, the adiacent Rifugio Kostner and Val di Mesdì on the opposite side.

Vallon summits annotated view
Vallon summits annotated view

On the left side of the basin it's located a less famous and little frequented group of summits, the Cime del Vallon, known as Pizes dl Valun in the Ladin language: Cima Occidentale del Vallon 2906 m, the Westernmost (right) and Cima Orientale del Vallon 2866 m to the left. Toward the Vallon this summits project a ridge ending with Sass del Rifugio 2722 m, just nearby the Rifugio Kostner. Cima Occidentale del Vallon is separated to the left from Cima Orientale del Vallon by a deep gorge. Cima Occidentale overlooks the Vallon with a fine gray and yellow wall crossed by some vertical parallel black stripes and characterized by some spurs on the right side. On the most massive of these spurs, an obvious and sharp gray pillar on the left of the Via Ferrata del Vallon, it runs a pleasant climbing route on excellent rock, "Passeggiata sul Vallon" ("Stroll over the Vallon"). 

Cime del Vallon annotated view
Cime del Vallon annotated view

Getting There

The starting point to approach is the village of Corvara in Badia, located in the homonymous Val Badia.

Road access to Corvara in Badia

- From Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria road to Brunico. In Brunico turn to right, following the Val Badia road to Pedraces and La Villa. In La Villa take on the right the road to Corvara.

 

Lake Boè
Lake Boè along the approach from Corvara
Bec de Roces tiny spires, Sella group
Bec de Roces tiny spires along the approach from Passo Campolongo

Approach to Cima Occidentale del Vallon

- From Corvara in Badia take the cable car "Boe" and the Vallon chair lift to reach the Vallon Basin. Once at the upper station take the path n. 638 (signpost to Via Ferrata del Vallon, skirting the peaks located on the right side of the Vallon and leading to the start of the Via Ferrata, rising along a short sloping wall with slabs that closes the head of the valley.  Alternatively

- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station. After about 5 minutes you reach the Boè lake and then the refuge

- by walking from Passo Campolongo 1875 m 

Via "Passeggiata sul Vallon"

Passeggiata sul Vallon route topo, Sella Group
Passeggiata sul Vallon route topo, Sella Group

 

Cima Occidentale del Vallon – Passeggiata sul Vallon (Stroll over the Vallon) report (UIAA scale)

Summit altitude: m 2906
Difficulty: max V+ UIAA
Route length: 150 m
Exposure: Nort-West
First ascent: Alberto Rampini - Silvia Mazzani 1997, August 3rd
Starting point: Refuge Kostner or Corvara in Badia

Pleasant route on excellent rock that overcomes an obvious gray and yellow rock pillar to the left of the Via Ferrata del Vallon.

Approach: from the upper station of the Vallon chair lift, take the path to the right with signposts to the Ferrata del Piz da Lech and Ferrata del Vallon. Continue on a slight slope and at a crossroads ignore the path to the Via Ferrata del Piz da Lech on the right. Continue leftward along the hillside on the bottom of the valley until you reach a wonderful circus of glacial origin, surrounded by imposing walls, where the Vallon is closed by a rocky wall and where it begins the Via Ferrata del Vallon. Follow briefly the first rocky step of the Via Ferrata up to a scree basin located above the first section of the Ferrata. From here head to a beautiful and sharp pillar on the left, getting the starting point in few minutes. 

Sass dals Nü seen from Cima Occidentale del Vallon, Sella Group
Summit of Cima Occidentale del Vallon

Route report

L1 - The first length on easy gray rocks leads to a belay on two rock-holes at the base of the obvious crack which cuts the lower part of the pillar, II, 30 m 
L2 - Take the crack overcoming a short yellow overhang (peg), then follow the crack along an excellent gray rock up to a terrace with two excellent holes, V +, 20 m
L3 - Continue on the gray exposed pillar,  first climbing the crack, then the wall and small dihedrals, reaching  a belay with 3 pegs slightly on the right, IV +, 1 move grading V, 45 m
L4 - Slightly on the left of the belay climb the wall - a little less vertically- then oblique to the right and belay on a small terrace with two excellent rock-holes on the edge of the airy ridge, IV, III, 30 m.
L5 - Climb a chimney of excellent rock with a right yellow face and a gray left face  on the left of the stance. Exit the chimney and reach the top of the tower climbing some little walls, IV, 45 m., 1 peg.

 

Descent: easily and shortly descend along a scree, reaching the exit of the Via Ferrata del Vallon. Follow downhill the via Ferrata.

Normal route

Exit of the Via Ferrata del Vallon
Exit of the Via Ferrata del Vallon

 

Summit altitude: m 2906
Difficulty: EEA
Starting point: Refuge Kostner or Corvara in Badia

 

From the Rifugio Kostner or alternatively from the upper station of the Vallon chair lift take the path to the right with signposts to the Ferrata del Piz da Lech and Ferrata del Vallon. Continue on a slight slope and at a crossroads, ignore the path to the Via Ferrata del Piz da Lech on the right. Continue along the hillside on the bottom of the valley until you reach a wonderful circus of glacial origin, surrounded by imposing walls, where the Vallon is closed by a rocky wall and where it begins the Via Ferrata del Vallon at about 2650 m of altitude. The Via ferrata begins with a first section diagonally to the right and with successive steps. Subsequently, the path reaches a scree hollow and a few more diagonal steps. On the left a waterfall descends from the top. You reach a metal bridge suspended over the waterfall, to be crossed. Then you reach the last and most demanding stretch, a vertical wall of 15 meters with excellent equipment. You reach the end of the Via Ferrata at 2750 m on the Forcella del Vallon, which opens between the Sasso delle Nove on the right and the Cima Occidentale del Vallon on the left. From the saddle head to left and scrambling up scree and easy terrain reach the summit ridge of the peak and the summit.

Via Ferrata del Vallon
Via Ferrata del Vallon
Suspended bridge along the Via Ferrata del Vallon
Suspended bridge along the Via Ferrata del Vallon

Descent: reversing the same itinerary

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

When to Climb

The best season to climb goes from June to September.

Hut and accomodation

Refuge Kostner with Marmolada and Gran Vernel
Refuge Kostner with Marmolada and Gran Vernel

 

Rifugio Franz Kostner 2550 m

Situation: located on a large debris terrace at the mouth of Vallon, under the walls of Cima Vallon and Pala delle Guide Pala, Sella Group
Open: 1 of July - 30 of September
Size: 33 pers.
Owner: C.A.I. Bolzano
Guardian: Emanuel Agreiter
Hut's phone 0039-3338759838
Guardian's phone: 0039-0471/836757
Getting There:

- by Boè cable car + Vallon chair lift from Corvara in Badia

- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station. After about 5 minutes you reach the Boè lake and then the refuge

- by walking from Passo Campolongo 1875 m 

Meteo

Meteo Bolzano Alto Adige
Meteo Trentino
ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO - Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008 C
ENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA - Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

"Gruppo del Sella" - Fabio Favaretto, Andrea Zannini - Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI/TCI

Kompass f. 616 1:30000 Provincia di Belluno Arabba-Marmolada

Tabacco ff. 06–071:25000



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Sella GroupMountains & Rocks