Cirque de Gavarnie Climber's Log

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Rafa Bartolome

Rafa Bartolome - Jun 12, 2006 8:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006

The full cirque  Sucess!

The itinerary of full cirque of Gavarnie is a long but beautifull ridge. All the summits except Astazus are uniteds for a "line" and the route is possible.
We began at 5:30 am in Pradera de Ordesa climbed across Clavijas de Cotatuero to reach Cuello de los Sarrios and the peak Casco with a lot of fog. After a little descent we follow the Faja de los sarrios to climb the peak Torre from the east (it's possible a couloir in west side). The access to the peak Espalda de Marboré it's not evident (the west face it's not possible) and after a long walk we turn to north side to enter to the valley after the wall. In west side is the access to the wall of Espada with a rock climb of II-.
We follow the ridge across the three Picos de la Cascada (grade II-) to finally reach the summit of Marboré, descending to refuge of Goriz after 14 hours of walk at 19:45h... spectacullar, but very tired.

Dan Bailey

Dan Bailey - Jul 23, 2004 6:29 am

Route Climbed: breche de roland Date Climbed: Summer 1995

Didn't climb to any summits, but did pass through the breche...fantastic area. I'd love to return in winter for the ice...


Huberschwiller - Dec 23, 2003 2:42 pm

Route Climbed: Brèche de Roland -Taillon Date Climbed: august 1978  Sucess!

I climbed solo the Taillon during my holidays in Luz Saint Sauveur. I still remember the fantastic views on the Ordesa canyons.


waspee - Dec 8, 2003 4:10 pm

Route Climbed: Col des tentes, Taillon, La tour, Col de la cascade Date Climbed: July 2002 and July 2003  Sucess!

Actually I have taken many trips there and I ended up going all the way around the back to reach Monte Perdido this year.

The Taillon via the Breche de Roland was my first 3000 metre high mountain at the tender age of 11 (Can this be right?). Since then I have been up the tower which is the second pic to the left of the Breche de Roland and the col de la cascade, right above the waterfall.

Rick B

Rick B - Oct 15, 2003 1:54 pm

Route Climbed: Col des Tentes - Breche de Roland - le Casque Date Climbed: juli 2003  Sucess!

Actually I was on a cycling vacation, but I couldn't resist going for a hike on the resting days. The original plan was to climb the mt. Perdu, but the weather didn't look too promising, so I decided to climb le Casque instead. The peak on itself is not very special, though it is over 3000m high. The spectacular views you have en route and from the summit more than make up for this though! Had my lunch on the summit, looking 1.5 km down on the tourists crawling through the valley on donkeys and horses...

Rafa Bartolome

Rafa Bartolome - Oct 14, 2003 11:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2003

Route Climbed: Pineta-Petit Astazú-Grand Astazú Date Climbed: 28 june 2003  Sucess!

Really I don't have all the tops of the Cirque de Gavarnie since it is not possible in only one day. I climb the two Astazus from the spanish side (Balcón de Pineta) that are a magnificent observatory on Gavarnie. It was a long climb with a lot of snow in june (7 hours to summit).

We sleep in the tents near the Lake of Marboré and on the following day we rise to the Cilindro (Cylinder) from we contemplate magnificent views of Monte Perdido and the other summits of the Cirque de Gavarnie like Marboré, Taillón...

I will back for the other summits of Cirque de Gavarnie (Taillon from Bujaruelo and Marboré from Ordesa, I am sure for this, but I don't kown when I will go. I wish in 2004.)

Edit: As I wish, I returned in june of 2004 for climb Taillon across Brecha de Rolando, a marvelous area.

Please, you must visit the wonderful valleys of Ordesa and Gavarnie, you will not be sorry about it.

Rafa Bartolomé

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