City of Rocks and Castle Rocks Climber's Log

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skunk ape

skunk ape - Feb 26, 2007 11:40 pm

Yee Haw!  Sucess!

Hot days and crowded weekends great times.


stolenj - Oct 10, 2006 4:08 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2006

City of Rocks Rally  Sucess!

Rallied down to COR for a nine-day climbing stint. Was impressed with the whole area, from the well-maintained trail system, to the granite. Side tripped to Castle Rocks one day but spent the majority of the time around Parking Lot, Bath Rock and Elephant. Low-key and uncrowded the COR definitely has a lot to offer as a premiere cragging area.


Lubos - Oct 9, 2006 3:36 am Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2006

Climbing in "the city"  Sucess!

A great place to climb. I was there for the first time this year and hope to make it to a total of three visits before the winter.


madsjim - Aug 8, 2006 12:08 am

Several Routes  Sucess!

I have been to the city 3 times and successfully climbed the popular multi pitch routes. I am not a hardcore rock climber and the routes here are perfect for those that just want to get out and
have a good time without the mental anguish of climbing out of your ability.


hkutuk - Jul 24, 2006 2:27 am

City of Rocks Climbing

June 20-21, 2006
First trip to the City with Martin, Radek and Shirley, loads of fun climbing a variety of routes. Crowded place though, had to camp in the BLM area.
Colombian Crack (5.7) Pictures of it looked so cool, but turned out to be more a flaring groove
Just Say No (5.9) Nicely bolted face, while waiting for Rye Crisp.
Intruding Dike (5.7) Fun easy crack, rain made for a quick climb
Private Idaho (5.9) Nice stemming all the way with the crux high, where the gear would get in your way to get a good hand jam
Bloody Fingers (5.10a) Quality route, lower jams were hard, higher up the crack gets thin and use face holds
Chimney (5.6) Definitely not a 6, must be a typo, easier for smaller folks probably
Animal Cracker (5.10a) Runout start on very sharp rock and flakes, little grunty offwidth but the roof move is not so bad. Second pitch crack is disappointing as it turns into a groove.

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - May 22, 2006 8:27 pm Date Climbed: May 21, 2006

One Weekend  Sucess!

Visited the City of Rocks for the first time this past weekend with Radek, Shirley, and Haydar. Had a nice time.

Colombian Crack - 5.7 - This is a 4 star route? Nasty flared groove with awkward climbing and bolts next to the crack where gear fits perfectly. 1 or 2 stars is more like it.

Sport climb left of Rye Crisp - 5.9 - Fun sustained face climbing with sparse pro (bolts every 20 feet or so). Very nice.

Intruding Dike - 5.7 - Fun fingercrack. Haydar's lead.

Private Idaho - 5.9 - Pretty good face climb with a crack for pro. More of a stemming route than a crack climb. Shirley's lead.

Bloody Fingers - 5.10A - Excellent fingers to hands crack. Really enjoyed the upper half. Radek's lead.

Chimney - ? - I lead a long flared chimney right of Bloody Fingers that was really nice. Sustained 8+ chimneying for 100 foot with pro sometimes 30 feet apart. Very fun.

Tried to lead Animal Cracker but slipped and cut my finger open on the sharp rock.

A fun outing.


rpc - May 22, 2006 6:05 pm

Couple O' Visits

Routes climbed:
2009 Spring Weekend Outing:
Fred Rasmussen (5.8). Short. Decent.
Tide Country (5.10a). Very fun - soft for the grade IMHO.
Lost Pioneers (5.10a). Not much to look at but climbs just fiiine.
Interceptor (5.11a)...fell off at the top...steeeep.
Too Much Fun (5.8 ...or 5.8 A0 if you're short :). Maybe too hyped up but fun enough.
New York Is Not The City (5.10a). Nice easy sport pitch.
2008 Spring Weekend Outing:
Z-Cracks (5.9). Short but quite good.
Snakes & Ladders (5.9). Short but quite good; Shirley led.
Double Cracks (5.10a). Very good stuff! Start is the crux, fun cruise higher.
Batwings (5.8). Shirley's lead. Spicy I thought when I followed on TR, esp. if you do not traverse over to the direct and clip its bolt...
Colombian Crack (5.7). Excellent 5.7 crack!
Rye Crisp (5.8). Second time up this classic, this time led by Shirley.
Carol's Crack (5.8). Nice enough, Shirley led.
Thin Slice (5.10a). So much more fun this time around when I was on TR :) Shirley's great lead.
2006 Two Weekends, incl. outing with Haydar and Martin:
Animal Cracker (5.10a). Great 2 pitch line! Pitch 1 was as good as Bloody Fingers IMHO. Shirley led pitch 2.
Private Idaho (5.9, Shirley's lead). Fun! Exciting lead on lower half on thin stuff.
Bloody Fingers (5.10a). One of best routes at City so far. Top notch.
Intruding Dike (5.7, Shirley's lead). OK route, better near top.
Wheat Thin (5.7, Shirley's lead). Still only OK.
Rye Crisp (5.8). Very fun!
Thin Slice (5.10a). Gym-like face moves with thin finger crack for pro. 4-stars is over-rating it IMHO.
Tow Away Zone (5.10a). Nice route but not very sustained.
Skyline (5.8, Shirley's lead). Nice position and OK climbing (3-stars IMHO.
2005 Quick Drive By:
Funky Bolt (5.9). Very nice route. 3-star rating is accurate.
2002 - 2003 (Couple visits including one weekend outing with Mark and Natasha D. and one with Jeff and Jay):
Cruel Shoes (5.7, swapped leads).
Hough's Crack (5.7).
Norma's Book (5.6, Shirley's lead).
The Classic Route (Lost Arrow Spire) (5.7). Top notch route at the grade.
Theater of Shadows (5.7). Bolt ladder.
Wheat Thin (5.7).
Intruding Dike (5.7).
First Lead (5.6, Shirley's lead).
Delay of Game (5.8 bolts).
Unnamed 5.7 (backside of Window Rock, Shirley's lead).
Unknown name (a 5.4 on parking lot side of Bath Rock).


mountaingazelle - May 3, 2006 5:26 pm

One of my favorite places Date Climbed: 1994, many other times  Sucess!

This is where I learned to rock climb. I visited City of Rocks when I was young and my first route was up Norma's Book on Parking Lot Rock. I climbed it without rock climbing shoes because I didn't own a pair at the time.

Other places I like include: Upper and Lower Breadloaves, Parking Lot Rock Area, Lookout Rock, Bumblie Wall, Stripe Rock, and Jackson's Thumb.


mfox79 - May 15, 2005 6:43 pm

Route Climbed: many no name's at the castle rocks,some on parkinglot rock Date Climbed: 5-16-05 the most current

On going ticklist

Theater of shadows 5.7 pitchs 1,2,3,4 2

first lead 5.6

Rain Dance, 5.7 P2

Summit route, Window rock 5.5

Flake route, Indian Chief Rock 5.7

Easy Route, Indian chief rock 5.5

Sinocrainum, Stienfelds dome 5.8 P 2,4,6

Fledgling, owl Rock 5.7
Catwalk 5.8, Breadloaves
Dykes on Harleys 5.5 Bread loaves
Intruding dike 5.7 Bread Loaves
Good Times 5.6 Window Rock
Pure Pleasure 5.6 Window Rock
Hesitation Blues 5.7 Rabbit Rock
Skyline 5.8 Morning Glory Spire
No Cash Refunds 5.7, Bread Loaves
Mountaineers Route 5.7 Lost Arrow Spire
Perpetual Illusion 5.9 Gallstone
Cruel Shoes 5.7, Stripe Rock
Mickey's Six 5.5
Cowboy Route 5.5 Bath Rock
Cowgirl Route 5.5 Bathrock
Tree Route 5.5 Bath Rock

Nate D

Nate D - Mar 26, 2005 5:58 pm

Route Climbed: a handful Date Climbed: 1992 - 95  Sucess!

Lots of great memories here. Kinda strange to sign a summit log, but there are indeed a lot of fine little summits in this stunning playground. Fall is particularly beautiful.

Matt K

Matt K - Aug 29, 2004 7:52 pm

Route Climbed: multiple Date Climbed: June 1994,1995,1996  Sucess!

Amazing place, contemplated visiting again last week when I was in the area.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Jun 2, 2004 1:05 am

Route Climbed: multiple Date Climbed: May 29-31, 2004  Sucess!

Led easy trad route on one of the Breadloaves-freezing cold up top and took a while to find the rap chains on the back side.

Led first pitch of Cruel Shoes.

Norma's Book.

A fun crack route and an easy chimney route on Window Rock.

Lots of campfire jokes at campsite 19. :- ) Why isn't there a route somewhere called Orange Banana Hammock?


John - Dec 30, 2003 11:56 pm

Route Climbed: A few Date Climbed: Sept 19-20 2002  Sucess!

Awesome place, no crowds on the weekdays though I've heard the SLC crowd shows up on wknds.

Carol's Crack - a lot of fun

Humble's Tumble - most memorable due to circumstances

Intruding Dike

Just Say No

Rye Crisp - awesome flake

Skyline - nice cummit

Plus some more that I don't remember right now.


kletterwebbi - Aug 6, 2003 2:19 am

Route Climbed: different Date Climbed: August 1996  Sucess!

Real great climbing area, one of the best climbing areas I ever visited. We enjoyed our one week visit very much !

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