Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
43.24161°N / 42.84854°E |
Route Type:
|
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing |
Season:
|
Summer |
|
Time Required:
|
Less than two hours |
|
Rock Difficulty:
|
5.12d (YDS) |
|
Number of Pitches:
|
5 |
|
Overview
Nikita RockThe multipitch route with stationary (bolted) intermediate belay stations. The rappel slings are available at all the stations. Very complicated climbing through the off-width cracks with smooth and rounded lips. In the lower part of the route a few chipped holds are provided ( to climb the “mirror”). The route is skived from the flakes covering the rocks. The climbing team needs 50 meter rope.
In the beginning of the route there is a very distinctive landmark – “zebra – like” relief (inclined rock strips parallel to each other)
The maximal climbing difficulty 8а-8б (approximately, to be finalized after the first ascent)
Pitches - 5 ( not exceeding 25 metres)
Quickdraws required –not more 12 pcs.
Route Description
Classic rock, 95 м, 7c (8а)
Classic rock, 95 м, 7c (8а)R1 – from “zebra” climb up to a small overhang and the up the crack to “mirror”. Climb up the “mirror” upto a big buldge. From the buldge to distinctive dihedral and the 2 meters to a ledge where the station is fixed. 20m 7b/7с
R2 – From the station up the dihedral till a big ledge . The station is there. 18m 7с/8а
R3 – From the station climb 3 meters along the ledge to the right till split-off crack coming up and to the right. Along the split-off crack climb till a short dihedral, the to the ledge equipped by the station. 22m 7b
R4 – Along the ledge climb to the right, then climb up a skew smooth crack climb till the next station. Very compelling climbing, practically no footholds. 15m 7с/8а
R5 – From the station climb up over the balcony, then straight up till the uppermost station. The station is fixed 0,5 meters away from the ridge. split-off crack
Variants of descent
1. From the ridge down a scree slope towards a grassy meadow near a stone with a memory plaque devoted to Nikita Bashmakov located between Rayskie (Paradise) campsite and the bivy in the mould.2. From the ridge down a scree slope and then through a sharp lowering in the ridge keeping to the right hand side from Classic Rock route.
3. Rappel from the top or from any station – all of them are equipped by rappel eyelids and chains.