Classic rock

Page Type
Route
Location:
Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.12d (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
5

Route Quality: 0 Votes

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Classic rock
Created On: Feb 20, 2011
Last Edited On: Feb 20, 2011

Overview

Nikita RockNikita Rock


The multipitch route with stationary (bolted) intermediate belay stations. The rappel slings are available at all the stations. Very complicated climbing through the off-width cracks with smooth and rounded lips. In the lower part of the route a few chipped holds are provided ( to climb the “mirror”). The route is skived from the flakes covering the rocks. The climbing team needs 50 meter rope.
In the beginning of the route there is a very distinctive landmark – “zebra – like” relief (inclined rock strips parallel to each other)
The maximal climbing difficulty 8а-8б (approximately, to be finalized after the first ascent)
Pitches - 5 ( not exceeding 25 metres)
Quickdraws required –not more 12 pcs.


Route Description

Classic rock, 95 м, 7c (8а)
Classic rockClassic rock, 95 м, 7c (8а)

R1 – from “zebra” climb up to a small overhang and the up the crack to “mirror”. Climb up the “mirror” upto a big buldge. From the buldge to distinctive dihedral and the 2 meters to a ledge where the station is fixed. 20m 7b/7с

R2 – From the station up the dihedral till a big ledge . The station is there. 18m 7с/8а

R3 – From the station climb 3 meters along the ledge to the right till split-off crack coming up and to the right. Along the split-off crack climb till a short dihedral, the to the ledge equipped by the station. 22m 7b

R4 – Along the ledge climb to the right, then climb up a skew smooth crack climb till the next station. Very compelling climbing, practically no footholds. 15m 7с/8а

R5 – From the station climb up over the balcony, then straight up till the uppermost station. The station is fixed 0,5 meters away from the ridge. split-off crack

Variants of descent

1. From the ridge down a scree slope towards a grassy meadow near a stone with a memory plaque devoted to Nikita Bashmakov located between Rayskie (Paradise) campsite and the bivy in the mould.

2. From the ridge down a scree slope and then through a sharp lowering in the ridge keeping to the right hand side from Classic Rock route.

3. Rappel from the top or from any station – all of them are equipped by rappel eyelids and chains.