uwjennie - Apr 23, 2007 8:29 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Ice is Nice...Yeah, well it wasn't my lead. Actually, I was scared to lead this at all. In time...I'll be ready to lead and run it out a bit.
rhyang - Apr 23, 2007 8:42 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Ice is Nice...My experience climbing with different folks is that ya gots to put sufficient pro in to protect yourself. It may seem like running it out is being a badass, but that only means you're not strong enough to put in enough pro ... on short pitches of WI3 such as on Chouinard there are plenty of good stances.
And I've discovered that ice always looks easier from the bottom - foreshortening :)
uwjennie - Apr 23, 2007 8:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Ice is Nice...Yes of course Rob. Safety first...and comfort with the exposure. Which is why I'm not leading at Lee Vining yet. In time I'm sure I'll be ready.
rhyang - Apr 23, 2007 11:50 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Ice is Nice...I agree with what you say Rick - the leader must not fall.
That said, I generally use double ropes and screamers to keep the impact force down. The people I've climbed with here in California, in Wyoming, and in Canada mostly do the same.
I know that if I fall leading ice I am almost certainly going to break something. But I hope that my pro catches me before I deck or factor 2 onto the anchor.
I tend to think the same way when leading trad. But that does not mean I should not practice placing pro which is as solid as possible.
Cheers, and looking forward to climbing with you again sometime !
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