VERY nice outing with GMS, and actually, we didn't go all the way to the saddle, but did the standard route, which cuts off towards Clements before the saddle. I was quite impressed with this mountain; somehow, and for some (no doubt stupid) reason, I had it in my head that it wasn't much of a climb. Not so! In many places the trail traverse along the north side reminded me of the Reynolds North Face Traverse. Anyway, a thoroughly enjoyable day. Now I'd like to to the East Face ascent....
Climbed East Couloir many times. One of the best routes in Glacier.
Fred, I see you were climbing at about the same age I was in Glacier Park, though 9 years earlier . I am writing about those years 1979-1981 when I was an employee at Lake Mcdonald Lodge and climbing a lot, if your interested. I am slow at putting up the summitposts so bear with me. It looks as though we were in the same areas!
Of all the climbs in glacier, this is my favorite by far. The climb of the East Face couloirs is challenging but not very difficult. It is like climbing giant steps so ropes are not required. The base is often deeply covered in snow (back then) so the traverse from the north saddle from Oberln was the safest way to access the couloir. Between 1979 and 1981, I climbed it 6 times, mainly as it was easily accessible from Logan Pass and fun to do. Was fortunate enough to witness "Specter of the Brocken" when a cloud came up the face and the sun cast our shadows into it. An incredible experience!
enjoyable climb and easier than it looks from the parking lot. would like to try the direct start or one of the Matides routes next time!
Great climb inspite of the fire in NW Montana.
7/29/93 CLIMBED WITH OTHG FROM SADDLE SOUTH OF OBERLIN UP THE NW FACE
8/13/98 CLIMBED WITH OTHG ALONG WITH OBERLIN
8/3/2000 CLIMBED WITH OTHG FROM HIDDEN LAKE TRAIL BEFORE HEADING OVER TO DO MT CANNON
7/23/2001 CLIMBED E FACE WITH GMS SHOWING WIFE HOW ROUTE FINDING CAN BE DIFFICULT WHICH MAKES FOR SOME EXCITING EXPOSURE
8/5/13 Solo after Mt Cannon
Enjoyed a great cloudless day on this cool face. Hate to climb this one with ANY rain on it! Anyway, had an interesting moment in the couloir when i took a small detour and got hung up on sheer cliffs. Made for a hair raising couple of moves before I got onto solid ground again. After the summit, the traverse of the north face was just as exhilarating!
Guidebook NOT helpful. Climb south ridge until you get cliffed out...head out onto the east face and keep going until you find the keyhole...look up and start thinking this can't be right...then, straight up and you're there.
no guide book, but figured it out and just did the standard route. Nice view and my cell phone worked. so I called my dad in Calif. he freaked out a little that I was up there and alone.
I had the guidebook with me, but I still missed what was supposedly the correct route, instead taking a route much like the variation described in the book. This way took me to some Class 5 situations and extremely dangerous exposure, but I finally reached the right couloir and made the summit. I took the West Ridge down.
With Fred. Very nice climb, especially for Glacier Park rock.