Cloud Tower, 5.11d

5th-6th Pitches- 200’- 5.10c/ Take the roof. I prefer not to place any pro until the very lip of the roof (2”) for rope drag purposes. Throw a perfect hand jam above and heave yourself up onto the face and into the crack. Three 3” pieces are handy for the first half of the tall crack, followed by two 4” pieces and .75” protects inside the much larger portion above as the crack ends. There are plenty of rests up this steep crack and I felt it was a bit soft for 5.10c. When the crack widens and turns left, follow it up to easier ground. Chimney through to the other side of the wall, staying high enough to step down on the belay ledge across the chasm. There is no gear for this section and the final move involves a tight squeeze, but the climbing is easy. Belay off 1” gear and enjoy the new found sun, normally the first you see en route route. In 2010 a Falcon was nesting across the ledge below.
Cloud Tower, 5.11d, 7 Pitches, Cloud Tower, Juniper Canyon, Red Rocks, NV, May, 2010


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