gordonye - Aug 17, 2009 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009
Southeast Face - Direct Start
Followed Dirk (diggler) on my classic #4! Very pleasurable climbing thanks to Dirk's efficient lead. Weather was beautifully calm. Love this slick metamorphic rock with lots of tiny cracks. Descended via the Rock Route, part of which under headlamps. A long, exhilarating day. This is now my favorite area of the whole High Sierra, the Minarets reminds me of the rock on Mt Kenya.
Attempt with Megan. Instead of starting at 9 (an hour after I'd planned), we should have started at 7 or so. The follower pack was making things miserable for her & slowing us down, so I 'hauled' it (hand over hand) for 2 shortened pitches, as they were considerably harder (.9 & .9+) than the 1st we did with her wearing it (.8). Getting to the top of the traditional 2nd pitch at 13.00, I reasoned that if we kept on going at that rate, we'd be headed for an epic, so we bailed (after 'pitch' 3).
At any rate, the area is one of the most beautiful in the Sierra, the peak is spectacular (a fitting testament to Mr. Clyde), & the face & climb (well, at least the first 2 pitches) stellar. I think the direct start is the only way to go (quality of climbing & aesthetically; we never managed to locate the '5.7' face original start anyway).
As the Governator would say, "Ah'll be back!!"
15 August, '9- came back & did this, with G Funk. One of the best climbs I've done. First 2 pitches of the direct variation (like last time) were phenomenal. Despite my misgivings about the large number of options available after the traverse pitch (where the direct variation meets up with the original line), once I picked a line, everything flowed great. Climbing was sustained, exposed, & just a blast. Running some of the pitches together with a 70m rope made things faster- recommended. Started route at 8.02, summited at 19.02- long (but great) day! Descent sucked- steep, $#itty rock, & good amount of exposure- was glad when we finally made it back to terra firma. Being on that funky metamorphic rock, with the other minarets surrounding you, you almost think you're in some other range! A true classic (Classic #7), & another great climb with ya, bro!
Since I climbed this just a few months before becoming "fatdad, unfortunately, this is the last long technical route I've done in the Sierras. But what a way to go out.
Really a remarkable route with a great setting and enough loose stuff to keep you on your 'A' game. That upper dihedral has some amazing climbing. I'd love to go back and do the direct start.
Tom Fralich - Aug 5, 2008 8:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2008
Direct SE Face (IV 5.10a)
Met up with MichaelJ in Mammoth Lakes and did this excellent route. We hiked in on Sunday and found a great campsite by Cecil Lake. Up at 5:30AM the next day, climbing at 7:30AM. We finished through the summit dihedral in 8 pitches and then some scrambling to the summit. Great day with only one other party on Ken Minaret. The descent is a death chute of falling rocks. Made it back to the tent at around 6PM and hiked out the next morning. Had lunch in Mammoth and then drove back to Sacramento for a night shift in the ER.
dshoshone - Aug 5, 2008 11:00 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2008
travelin_light - Aug 25, 2007 1:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
SE Face
The direct start is sexy. I like.
Deb - Jul 2, 2007 12:38 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
Rock Route!
What a thrilling blast! My darling husband talked me through the reachy spots but nothing impossible for little ole me. Beautiful weather, we left the mosquitoes down at camp. :) Definitely a "do it again" peak!
atavist - Jun 21, 2007 12:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
sierra challenge
Met some good climbers on the challenge. Managed to bag Eichorn and Michael minaret as well. The minarets are great for some highball scrambling.
Bob Burd - Aug 29, 2006 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Rock Route
Day 2 of the 2006 Sierra Challenge.
Traversed to Eichorn and Michael Minarets for the most enjoyable of the ten days. Trip Report
Dave Daly - Aug 17, 2006 6:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Rock Route
Very fun, easy yet exposed route! Classic traverse from the summit of Clyde over to Eichron Minaret.....very exciting 4th class in between!!!
SamG - Aug 7, 2006 6:24 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Rock Route
Rock Route was tons of fun it was the second day of the sierra challenge made it all the way. Well worth it
I took a day hike from Reds Meadow to better learn the area. My turning point was just above the rust color rock that lies at the lower third of the mountain. I plan on returning to complete and summit in the future. About twelve miles round trip.
Route Climbed: SE Face, Direct Start IV 5.9+ Date Climbed: July 12, 2004
Lots of fun. Quite long. It tooks us as long to climb this as it did Dark Star. The last dihedral pitch made the loose rock and difficult route finding on the rest worth it. Fairly easy descent considering....
Route Climbed: Southeast Face, IV, 5.8 Date Climbed: July 4th , 1986
Robert Somoano and I climbed this trully great route in 1986. We found the routefinding a bit devious, but the route of high quality. We started a bit late, to allow space for another party in front of us (Bill Krause and a partner-small world, Bill). Because of that, we were late coming down the Ken-Clyde Couloir which we found to be hard snow at 7PM. We kept rapelling throughout the night as we only had rock shoes and cleaning tools for the snow. Epic. We started to run out of hardware to rap. Robert escaped disaster when single #5 RP failed on the last rappel and hurled him down into the shrund some 60 feet below. He landed on his pack and luckily, was uninjured. I though he was dead and only his yelling my name, brought me to the reality of his surviving the fall. One of the few times in the last 30 years that almost ended badly.
A year later, Miguel Carmona and a partner climbed the route and came back with most of my gear. Since Miguel knew I left it there, he was able to search the wall for it and found it. He actually brought me back most of it. What a friend!
gordonye - Aug 17, 2009 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009
Southeast Face - Direct StartFollowed Dirk (diggler) on my classic #4! Very pleasurable climbing thanks to Dirk's efficient lead. Weather was beautifully calm. Love this slick metamorphic rock with lots of tiny cracks. Descended via the Rock Route, part of which under headlamps. A long, exhilarating day. This is now my favorite area of the whole High Sierra, the Minarets reminds me of the rock on Mt Kenya.
Diggler - Sep 15, 2008 1:35 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008
2nd time's the charm!Attempt with Megan. Instead of starting at 9 (an hour after I'd planned), we should have started at 7 or so. The follower pack was making things miserable for her & slowing us down, so I 'hauled' it (hand over hand) for 2 shortened pitches, as they were considerably harder (.9 & .9+) than the 1st we did with her wearing it (.8). Getting to the top of the traditional 2nd pitch at 13.00, I reasoned that if we kept on going at that rate, we'd be headed for an epic, so we bailed (after 'pitch' 3).
At any rate, the area is one of the most beautiful in the Sierra, the peak is spectacular (a fitting testament to Mr. Clyde), & the face & climb (well, at least the first 2 pitches) stellar. I think the direct start is the only way to go (quality of climbing & aesthetically; we never managed to locate the '5.7' face original start anyway).
As the Governator would say, "Ah'll be back!!"
15 August, '9- came back & did this, with G Funk. One of the best climbs I've done. First 2 pitches of the direct variation (like last time) were phenomenal. Despite my misgivings about the large number of options available after the traverse pitch (where the direct variation meets up with the original line), once I picked a line, everything flowed great. Climbing was sustained, exposed, & just a blast. Running some of the pitches together with a 70m rope made things faster- recommended. Started route at 8.02, summited at 19.02- long (but great) day! Descent sucked- steep, $#itty rock, & good amount of exposure- was glad when we finally made it back to terra firma. Being on that funky metamorphic rock, with the other minarets surrounding you, you almost think you're in some other range! A true classic (Classic #7), & another great climb with ya, bro!
fatdad - Aug 26, 2008 5:02 pm
SE Face: Aug. 2003Since I climbed this just a few months before becoming "fatdad, unfortunately, this is the last long technical route I've done in the Sierras. But what a way to go out.
Really a remarkable route with a great setting and enough loose stuff to keep you on your 'A' game. That upper dihedral has some amazing climbing. I'd love to go back and do the direct start.
Tom Fralich - Aug 5, 2008 8:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2008
Direct SE Face (IV 5.10a)Met up with MichaelJ in Mammoth Lakes and did this excellent route. We hiked in on Sunday and found a great campsite by Cecil Lake. Up at 5:30AM the next day, climbing at 7:30AM. We finished through the summit dihedral in 8 pitches and then some scrambling to the summit. Great day with only one other party on Ken Minaret. The descent is a death chute of falling rocks. Made it back to the tent at around 6PM and hiked out the next morning. Had lunch in Mammoth and then drove back to Sacramento for a night shift in the ER.
dshoshone - Aug 5, 2008 11:00 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2008
Rock RouteAs good as it gets. My favorite climb to date.
Sierra Ledge Rat - Jul 17, 2008 11:31 pm
1978: Rock RouteWhat a cool summit
travelin_light - Aug 25, 2007 1:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
SE FaceThe direct start is sexy. I like.
Deb - Jul 2, 2007 12:38 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
Rock Route!What a thrilling blast! My darling husband talked me through the reachy spots but nothing impossible for little ole me. Beautiful weather, we left the mosquitoes down at camp. :) Definitely a "do it again" peak!
atavist - Jun 21, 2007 12:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
sierra challengeMet some good climbers on the challenge. Managed to bag Eichorn and Michael minaret as well. The minarets are great for some highball scrambling.
Bob Burd - Aug 29, 2006 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Rock RouteDay 2 of the 2006 Sierra Challenge.
Traversed to Eichorn and Michael Minarets for the most enjoyable of the ten days. Trip Report
Dave Daly - Aug 17, 2006 6:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Rock RouteVery fun, easy yet exposed route! Classic traverse from the summit of Clyde over to Eichron Minaret.....very exciting 4th class in between!!!
SamG - Aug 7, 2006 6:24 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Rock RouteRock Route was tons of fun it was the second day of the sierra challenge made it all the way. Well worth it
tdoughty - Oct 16, 2005 12:34 pm
Route Climbed: SE FaceWonderful route, 4th class descent was covered in snow!
tiogap - Sep 7, 2005 12:48 am
Route Climbed: Rock Route Date Climbed: August, 1980a long time ago
aleasure - Jul 14, 2005 5:01 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast face 5.9+ Date Climbed: August 2003Fun, a long approach.
sierratrekkin - Dec 19, 2004 9:05 pm
Date Climbed: June, 2002I took a day hike from Reds Meadow to better learn the area. My turning point was just above the rust color rock that lies at the lower third of the mountain. I plan on returning to complete and summit in the future. About twelve miles round trip.
brandon - Jul 14, 2004 12:37 am
Route Climbed: SE Face, Direct Start IV 5.9+ Date Climbed: July 12, 2004Lots of fun. Quite long. It tooks us as long to climb this as it did Dark Star. The last dihedral pitch made the loose rock and difficult route finding on the rest worth it. Fairly easy descent considering....
Robt - Nov 5, 2003 3:35 pm
Route Climbed: Rock Rte Date Climbed: July 20, 2003PCS trip led by Bob Suzuki and Jim Ramaker. For details, see J. Ramaker's TR on climber.org
fdikken - Oct 13, 2003 5:58 pm
Route Climbed: Rock Route Date Climbed: Sept 24, 2003Climbed the Rock Route as day trip from Agnew Mdw.
Great climb in a beautiful setting. Glad to be only one on the mountain as I found it very difficult not to dislodge loose rock.
- Frank
asmrz - Nov 13, 2002 8:54 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast Face, IV, 5.8 Date Climbed: July 4th , 1986Robert Somoano and I climbed this trully great route in 1986. We found the routefinding a bit devious, but the route of high quality. We started a bit late, to allow space for another party in front of us (Bill Krause and a partner-small world, Bill). Because of that, we were late coming down the Ken-Clyde Couloir which we found to be hard snow at 7PM. We kept rapelling throughout the night as we only had rock shoes and cleaning tools for the snow. Epic. We started to run out of hardware to rap. Robert escaped disaster when single #5 RP failed on the last rappel and hurled him down into the shrund some 60 feet below. He landed on his pack and luckily, was uninjured. I though he was dead and only his yelling my name, brought me to the reality of his surviving the fall. One of the few times in the last 30 years that almost ended badly.
A year later, Miguel Carmona and a partner climbed the route and came back with most of my gear. Since Miguel knew I left it there, he was able to search the wall for it and found it. He actually brought me back most of it. What a friend!